Glimpses of old Glasgow

Part I. Historical

Glasgow (East Central)

THE GALLOWGATE. - This street is one of the oldest thoroughfares of Glasgow. Its past history is fascinating, but I shall not pause to dwell thereon. Before the opening of London Street it was one of the chief highways out or into the city. Its leading shops were occupied by prominent citizens who did considerable business, especially among those who came in from the surrounding country districts. In my boyhood its vehicular traffic was considered great and important, and the guard's bugle notes echoed through it as the mail coach entered the city, especially when bringing tidings of national importance.

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The news of the great victory at Waterloo was not heralded in this way, but became known to the citizens through a letter written by Sergeant-Major James Russell, of the Scots Greys, to his wife, and received by her on the Sabbath after the victory, and which appeared in the Glasgow Herald of the following morning. As may be surmised the intelligence diffused great joy throughout the community. It may interest my readers to know that the sergeant-major, who in later years was Captain of the Clyde police force, materially contributed to the defeat of the famed Cuirassiers. Against these steel-clad warriors the swords of the Greys were useless, but one of them being killed by a sword-thrust, Russell and two others examined the cuirass of the dead horseman and found a vulnerable spot near the collar. "Prick them in the neck, boys!" they shouted, and the Cuirassiers were soon put to rout when the keen weapons of the Scots were directed to the weak place in their armour.

A legend of one of the British regiments has a reference to the Gallowgate. At Fuente d'Honore, in Spain, the 71st Regiment bore the brunt of the fight. When the contest seemed to be going against the British, Colonel Cadogan waved his hat and cried, "Now, my lads, charge them down the Gallowgate," the scene of the conflict resembling that old Glasgow thoroughfare. With a cheer the 71st rushed on and drove the French out at the point of the bayonet. A monument to the gallant colonel's memory is in the Cathedral.

Starting at the Cross to go by Gallowgate the pedestrian's cars soon heard the unmelodious sounds of the waters of the Molendinar rushing to the Clyde. This burn for many years before it was covered over gave neither fragrance nor beauty to the district. As we pass on eastward the old Spoutmouth is reached. Whatever was its genesis this well-known spot had no attractiveness. At one time there was located in this place one of the largest and most interesting classes for young men for the study of Biblical literature and natural science. It was under the superintendence of Mr. (the late Sir) Michael Connal. In its day it did good work, and was the means of starting similar institutions in other parts of the city. The old landmarks are gone, and signs of modern improvement in several ways are apparent.

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Further on can be seen many of the old buildings of Dovehill - formerly called Dowhill. The lands of Dowhill extended from the Molendinar Burn at the Spoutmouth butts, and north to the College green. In very olden times Little St. Mungo's chapel and churchyard occupied the part now covered by the Saracen tool works, and the south of the churchyard was where Saracen's Head Inn was built, the stones for which were got from the ruins of the Bishop's Castle, by permission of the magistrates of that day. The Saracen's Head was for many years the chief hotel of the city, and was much patronised by the county nobility, and also by distinguished strangers. Part of this inn still remains in the Gallowgate; the old exterior, though hidden by shop front erections, may still be seen between Great Dovehill and Saracen's Lane. The great hall, or ball-room, is still there (entry by Great Dovehill), but is now used for mission premises and Sabbath school purposes. The entrance to the stables was by a private lane on the east side of the hotel, now called Saracen Lane. It is recorded that Dr. Samuel Johnson on returning from his tour to the Hebrides stayed at this celebrated inn in 1773, and was visited by some of the college professors, who came from the college over the Dowhill by a green lane and breakfasted with him.

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The first mail coach from London that ever arrived in Glasgow drew up at this inn on 7th July, 1788. The interest excited on the occasion was great: the landlord, accompanied by a crowd of horsemen, rode out as far as Tollcross to meet the coach and welcome its advent to the city. Here also at various hours of the day coaches from the country arrived, and from it others left for towns ten and fifteen miles distant.

On the lands of Dovehill the Saracen Foundry was started in 1851 by Walter Macfarlane. It was early famed for the beauty of its ornamental iron castings. The firm flourished, and soon it became necessary to remove to larger works erected in Washington Street. These also became too limited, and the next removal was to extensive works at Possilpark, specially built for themselves, which covers nearly twelve acres of ground.

At the head of Macfarlane Street stands St. John's Parish Church - a massive Gothic building. It was here the renowned Dr. Chalmers ministered and laboured, with the eloquent Edward Irving as his assistant.

Going still eastward we come to a large quadrangular. piece of ground, surrounded by a high wall. Here stood the Infantry barracks, which, built in 1795 at a cost of £15,000, could accommodate one thousand men. From the gateway I used to watch the soldiers and recruits drilling in the great square. Some years ago the soldiers were removed to the new barracks erected at Maryhill. The old site in the Gallowgate is now the scene of railway trading, and the rendezvous for showmen and exhibitions of all kinds.

Graham Square is the Gallowgate entrance to the Cattle Market, which covers a very large area of ground, and extends to Duke Street. This was part of the old Gallowmuir.

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Gallowgate (East) to-day is in a thriving condition. The former dull and lifeless parts of it are now instinct with vitality, thousands of workers finding here their livelihood. Moderately rented houses of two or three apartments are numerous in this locality, so that, the district is densely populated.

Retracing our steps by Kent Street (old fruit market), Great Hamilton Street, and through Baalam's Pass, we come to LONDON STREET, at one time the dwelling-place of the great ones of Glasgow, and expected still to be one of the most important streets in the city. As an emporium of commerce it has been a comparative failure.

CHARLOTTE STREET, called after the queen of George III., was opened by Mr. Archibald Paterson, partner with David Dale. He built the first Independent Church in Glasgow. Paterson Street, on the south side, is called after him. Charlotte Street, especially its southern part where it had gates, was long the residence of the rich. The philanthropic David Dale, one of the foremost of Glasgow citizens, had his town residence here. He was always ready to forward every scheme calculated to benefit his fellow-men, to ameliorate the condition of the outcast or orphan, or to reclaim the vicious and the criminal. Dale Street, Bridgeton, and Dale Street, Tradeston, are called after him. His name is still fragrant in Glasgow.

ST. ANDREW'S SQUARE dates from 1787, and in its early years was an aristocratic quarter. Later, only the wealthiest merchants could afford to reside in it. In my youthful days its mansions were surrounded by gardens, in which grew various kinds of fruit trees. St. Andrew's Parish Church was begun in 1739, but not finished till 1756. Standing in the centre of the square, with its lofty spire and clock, it has quite an imposing look, and adds dignity to the neighbourhood. The interior of this handsome ecclesiastical building is beautiful. On its western front there is a grand Portico with a flat arch, which has excited the wonder of antiquarians. The architect was Mungo Naismyth, grandfather of the founder of the Young Men's Christian Association. The Rev. Dr. Candlish, before he was settled in St. George's, Edinburgh, aspired to be its minister. But changed is the square: gone is its high estate. The stately buildings, erstwhile the abode of the honoured and wealthy of the city, are now tenanted by humble toilers, or turned into places of business. But though the square is not so celebrated as in days of yore, yet from its proximity to two of our most beneficent philanthropic and religious agencies, it is well-known to visitors.

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JAMES MORRISON STREET is a new street opened up to St. Andrew's Square. It contains the City Orphan Home, under the superintendence of the devoted Mr. William Quarrier, where the temporal and spiritual interests of orphans or fatherless children are attended to. The home also serves as a house of shelter for lads, and is a place where a rescuing and helping hand is held out to young women likely to be led astray. Another agency I would refer to is the Glasgow Evangelistic Association, whose hall enters from Low Green Street on south side of the Square. It aims at providing religious instruction for the lapsed masses, whether old or young. It is also "a house of bread" to the hungry. As the result of religious awakening it has had for many years a free breakfast table on Sabbath mornings for the poor and outcast. In the large hall entry by Steel Street, there is a religious service every Sabbath afternoon for youths, at the close of which the young folk get a good dinner. The attendance is from 800 to 900. Here the kind-hearted and unwearied Mr. MacKeith labours, supported by a large staff of faithful co-workers.

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At the corner of Low Green and Greendyke Streets is St. Andrew's Episcopal Church, with its gravestones and an iron railing surrounding the whole. For a long time it was a very fashionable place of worship - the west country aristocracy coming regularly to the service. Dr. Gordon was for many years its respected incumbent.