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THE Cross of Glasgow stands at the intersection formed by the four streets - High Street, Saltmarket, Gallowgate, and Trongate. The origin of these names is evident. The High Street or High-Kirk Street was the road leading to the High Church; the Saltmarket being the market where salt was sold; the Gallowgate was the gate or road to the Gallowmuir; the Trongate being the gate or port leading to the public "Trone" or balance for weighing heavy goods.
THE TRONGATE. - The Trongate (at one time called St. Enoch Street, then Tron Street, and afterwards Trongate) in its olden days was a fine street; and although for a time its pristine greatness seems to have waned, yet it has lately regained a considerable portion of its former glory. This can be witnessed in the new handsome range of shops, warehouses, and dwelling houses an its south side near to the Cross. Our old Town Hall, erected in 1736, immediately west and joining the old Tolbooth, was its most striking building. Its walls were adorned with portraits of several British sovereigns and of leading citizens in civic and commercial life; it also contained a bust of George III. in bronze. There, too, stood the statue of the famous William Pitt. To us who know the magnificence of the present palatial Municipal buildings the former halls must indeed seem insignificant; but Council meetings then were small compared with those of to-day.
Contiguous to the above hall were the Tontine buildings, Exchange Reading Rooms, and Tontine Hotel, now occupied as a drapery warehouse. Under the grateful shelter of its piazza our enterprising merchants used to congregate for business and for a promenade. Erected in 1781, its shares were 107 of £50 each. Not long since the only remaining shareholder died.
The famed "Tontine faces" formed the keystone of the arches of the piazza. they were the fear and admiration of the youngsters of a former generation. They are now to be seen on the front of Fraser & Sons' warehouse in Buchanan Street. These grotesque faces were carved by Mungo Naismyth, who was better known as the builder of St. Andrew's Church. The most prominent object in the Trongate is the equestrian statue of King William III. at the Old Exchange, presented to the city in 1734 by James Macrae, Governor of Madras. The statue has always been regarded as a beautiful specimen of art. On the pedestal is a lengthy inscription. It is intended to remove the "King William" statue very soon to the west end of the Cross island station of the new railway running underneath Trongate and Argyle Streets.
The author of "The Pen Folk" (the late Mr. David Gilmour) on his first visit to Glasgow, with his father, in 1817, thus describes his feelings on viewing the statue of King William:-
Just over the way stood that wonder of wonders, King William, I had so often heard of, grand on his charger, past whom or which father hurried along, and through another steeple; and passing, with a good day to one or two others, we presently entered our first destined place of call - Uncle John's grocery shop, where I was furnished with a biscuit, "twal hours." I did not sit long. I had noticed the Cross Steeple in passing it; it showed twenty minutes past one; so, sauntering leisurely to the door, and when out of sight of father, I rushed down the street, crossed over, planted myself on the curb, taking in at a glance King William and the hour indicated by the orledge - ten minutes to two.
How well I remember the joy with which I clasped both my knees as I sat on the very edge of the curb, and the long satisfied breath I drew now and then, with my gaze fixed on the lang han' and the King. The great hour I had heard of and talked about had come at last; the hour of which, when King William hears the first tol-lol, he comes from his horse and walks into the Tontine Hotel, and orders dinner. As the han' began to cover the upright figures, I looked round sharply on the king, and muttered to myself, "As shure's death he's steerin';" and when the hour struck, I leaped to my feet to cross the street, but fell prone and lay, how long I did not know. It could not have been long. How I managed to cross over I never knew. I knew, however, that I had been hoaxed by some one, for the king kept his seat as grim as ever. At ten minutes past two I entered, carelessly, uncle's shop again, attempting, unsuccessfully, to whistle, but resolved not to speak. It was easier to whistle even than to keep silent. "I declare he's been fighting," father said. "No, I havena," was my retort. Uncle held a small hand-mirror before me, when I found that my nose had bled, damaging my collar and neck-tie. So I had to tell my story, and get laughed at - Uncle John consoling me with the taunt that, he did not think a son of my mother's was "sic an ass." I well remember the last word was uttered with a snap, as if he could have bit me. But that good man never bit, and seldom barked, excepting at stupidity where he expected common-sense. I took care not to refer to King William after reaching home; and I have been less credulous in subjects of greater importance since that great awakening.
The first plane stone pavement of Glasgow was to be seen in the Trongate near Nelson Street. All paths then were like the ordinary cart or vehicle roads for traffic, but these have long since been changed, no doubt for the better. Where Campbell's Arcade now stands was born Sir John Moore, the hero of Corunna and the subject of Wolfe's memorable lines. The chief building on the south side of the Trongate was the steeple of St., Mary's Church, now known as the Tron Kirk Steeple. It is 126 feet high and is a miniature copy of the central tower of the Cathedral. From the street the church was not visible, but the alterations now going on have brought it into view. One of its ministers was the great Dr. Chalmers. In this church on the Thursdays, as is noted elsewhere, he delivered his famous astronomical lectures to crowded audiences. Then just a little beyond the Tron Steeple was Messrs. Ross's renowned blacking establishment. Its business was considerable both in the town and in the country.
KING STREET was long known as New Street. The flesh markets were here for many years. Fresh butcher meat could then only be got on market days, except perhaps lamb during the summer months. A few of the old buildings are still here, although not of much account now. Miller's Place, which led from King Street to Saltmarket, was and still is a special depôt for second-hand furniture and household goods; it was also one of the centres for carriers' quarters. Branching off on south side of Trongate are the Back Wynd, the New Wynd, and the Old Wynd, all of which had notoriety in their early and later years.
Opposite the Tron Kirk Steeple were the leading coach offices in Glasgow. There they started for London, Edinburgh, Kilmarnock, Ayr, Paisley, and Portpatrick. When the London Mail left at ten o'clock in the evening, the Tron Kirk Steeple rang for a quarter of an hour, previous, warning all who had letters to post or small parcels to send to London. Often large numbers would be seen running to get their letters off by the mail. The Paisley coaches started hourly, and were under the management of Messrs. Lyon & Son.
It took sixty minutes to reach Paisley in those days. Now classic "Seestu" can be reached in fifteen minutes by any of the lines of railway leading from Glasgow. The proprietors of the Paisley coaches met with much opposition. Fully fifty years ago there was started a street or roadway steam coach, in appearance not unlike an ordinary coach; the depôt for it was at the head of Queen Street, where the North British Railway Station now stands. This new vehicle for travelling raised no small stir in the community, because of the "snorting" it made as it ran to and fro. One day shortly after it started it exploded at the Half-Way House on Paisley Road. The results were serious; several of the passengers being killed, while others were severely injured. At this time the canal boats to Paisley and Johnstone did a fair trade, the time taken being - to Paisley one hour; the canal boats to Edinburgh took from five to six hours. To cheer the monotony of the dull "voyage" and gain a few coppers blind fiddlers used to discourse their sweetest music. Comparing the business then done by coach and canal boat with what is now done between Glasgow and the above-named towns it is but "a drop in the bucket."
At No. 164 Trongate was the upholstery and funeral undertaking establishment of Messrs. Wylie & Lochhead. While here the business so increased that they had soon to remove to larger premises in Argyle Street.
At No. 188 Trongate was the famous bookseller's shop of David Robertson, who was appointed in 1837 bookseller to the Queen in Glasgow. It was the resort of our local celebrities. Here Carrick, Motherwell, Andrew Henderson, William Kennedy, Charles Mackay, Thomas Davidson, Pinkerton, Dr. William Young, Dr. Graeme, and many other poets and divines met.
But the Trongate of my boyhood is gone. In the eastern part the old order has given place to the new, and buildings, grand as those in the west end, meet the gaze of the visitor. Westward, however, some of the old tenements can still be seen; but they, too, will gradually disappear. The City Improvement Act, which came into operation in Lord Provost Blackie's reign in 1866, did much for the removal of old and insanitary dwellings, and the formation of many new streets, which has greatly helped to reduce the death-rate of the City. With all that has been accomplished there is much still to be done in various quarters of the City. There are dens where fever ever lurks, and in which reside many people whose lives are sordid and low, if not criminal. The City atmosphere must be sweetened by the removal of these unsavoury places; and, where they exist, buildings suitable for habitation by the industrious and law-abiding should take their place; or, if not, let them be left open as "lungs" for this great and ever-growing municipality.
There are, I believe, a good many still alive who remember the scare caused by the Burke and Hare atrocities, which spread over "broad Scotland." It was rumoured that in all the dark and lonely parts of the cities and country cruel men lay lurking about, supplied with plasters, which they stuck over the mouths of such persons as came near them, and whom they put to death in this way, carrying the dead bodies to the dissecting rooms of hospitals, or giving them to doctors as "subjects" for dissection. I recollect that it was the custom for timorous people when passing the Wynds to put their hands upon their mouths, so as to ward off the death-dealing plaster.
A leading but narrow street from the Cross was NELSON STREET. Its lower part was chiefly occupied with shops and small warehouses, while at its top on the east side was the principal post-office of the City. Here also were the Lyceum Rooms, popular for meetings in their day. In these rooms met a number of Radicals who, dissatisfied with "creeds," had left the churches with which they had been connected and formed what was called the Chartist Church, the chief preachers of which were Malcolm M'Farlane, Matthew Cullen, and W. Govan. Two of the juniors in this kirk (William Dryburgh and William S. Brown) gave biblical expositions. They themselves owned that one of them could not preach, and the other could not pray. Mr. Dryburgh had a "guid conceit o' himsel'." Failing to understand and explain one of Paul's hard sayings in the Epistle to the Romans, he came to the conclusion that the great apostle was not sound on that particular point.
CANDLERIGGS was an important street in former years as well as at the present time. It derived its name from a candle work which stood near St. David's (Ramshorn) Church. In its early years it held three sugarhouses and two cooperages, one of which merged into Bailie Hood's, and existed for a number of years there. The leading toy shops centred here at one time, and on the east side occupying three flats was the large drapery establishment of Messrs. J. & W. Campbell. The Bazaar was opened in 1816 for the sale of cheese, butter, and ham, but this has largely extended, besides being now the great depôt for our fruit trade - merchandise coming from all parts of the world. Contrasting it with that of to-day, it seems almost like a wholesale shop. The City Hall (at one time our only hall for great public meetings) is built over the bazaar on a series of massive pillars.
Behind the Central Police Office, off Bell Street, was the old Bird and Dog Market, where my companions used to sell their "doos" and the rabbits they reared. This well-known market had great attractions for me: it was a treat to visit at intervals our canine friends and to listen to the feathered songsters.
We enter from Candleriggs into WILSON STREET, which was opened for traffic in 1790. This street was called in honour of Wilson, the founder of Wilson's Charity School. The chief shops in the east end of this street were devoted to the sale of cheese, butter, ham, and grain. There, too, was Chalmers & Collins' book shop, the first named being the brother of the celebrated Dr. Chalmers, and the latter the father of our present Sir William Collins. This shop in after years was removed into Ingram Street, nearly opposite to where the British Linen Company's Bank now stands. At one comer of Wilson Street and Brunswick Street was the Scots Times newspaper office, which was published bi-weekly. At the corner of Wilson Street and Hutcheson Street were Messrs. Tegg & Co.'s large book shops and Messrs. M'Fadzean & Co.'s shop for the sale of musical literature and all kinds and sizes of musical instruments. On the other side were two tinsmiths' shops. Large and imposing in appearance were these buildings sixty or seventy years ago, and they had none of that smoke-begrimed look which detracts so much from the beauty of the houses of to-day.
At the west end of this street was the establishment of Messrs. Smith & Sons, booksellers. The north side of Wilson Street reached almost palatial dignity - the City and County Buildings being erected there in 1844. This handsome pile, the seat of our municipal government, cost above £60,000, the site alone costing upwards of £17,000. The accommodation proving too small for the growing necessities of our civic rulers, an extension was made to Brunswick Street, and a still further extension being found necessary, in 1874 the Council acquired the remainder of the ground between Wilson Street and Ingram Street, including the Merchants' House and Hall. This increased accommodation still proving inadequate for the proper housing of our municipal offices, the Council in 1878 secured a new site on the east side of George Square for enlarged municipal buildings. The foundation stone was laid 6th October, 1883.
GLASSFORD STREET historically is not so ancient as some of the streets already referred to, but here stood Shawfield Mansion, built by Duncan Campbell, Esq., M.P., where Prince Charles Edward Stewart took up his abode when he and his Highland host passed the Christmas and New Year of 1745-46 in Glasgow on his flight from Derby. The house at that time was the property of Colonel William M'Dowall of Castle Semple. It afterwards was bought by John Glassford of Dugaldston, who was one of Glasgow's most extensive shippers. Glassford Street was called after him when the Shawfield Mansion was pulled down to allow this street to be opened. The old and famous Ship Bank which, commenced in the Briggate, had been removed to Argyle Street, finding the premises in that street too small for its business, erected larger and more elegant buildings on the west side of this street, near the foot. They had a frontage of 222 feet. Its central division was set apart for banking operations, its flank compartments for shops and warehouses, and its sunk floor as strong rooms for plate and other valuables.
A printing office was also accommodated here. The two upper floors were occupied by the cashier. The next prominent building in this street was the Trades' House, built by the Incorporated Trades in 1794. Each of the fourteen incorporated trades hold their meetings here, and regularly dispense their pensions to the incapacitated members of the crafts and their widows. Its chief hall, well known as the Trades' Hall, has been greatly admired for its architectural proportions. In 1889 the whole buildings were altered in harmony with modern requirements, the main hall alone retaining its original form and style. For many years the hall was in great request for public meetings and assemblies of every kind. I was present at a meeting of the Bible Society at which Dr. Macleod, father of the great Norman, told an amusing anecdote illustrating the difficulty sometimes experienced in giving a literal and accurate rendering of a technical word. "In the Irish Gaelic," he said, "in the account of Paul's shipwreck, the word 'sounded' in the phrase, 'the shipmen deemed that they drew near to some country, and sounded, and found it twenty fathoms,' is translated 'whistled' - surely a reversal of the old belief that sailors whistle when they wish for wind, as in this case they had a hurricane."
ARGYLE STREET. - I still recollect the day when I first saw Argyle Street. Even then a bustling thoroughfare, and so different from anything I had seen before, I could not but gaze at the crowds which thronged the street where I have toiled for nearly sixty years. Most of the members of that assemblage have passed away, and of the names then above the shop doors few remain.
At the beginning of this street stood the old West Port Well, referred to in "Some Bygone Glasgow Characters." This well, from early dawn till dewy eve, was liberally patronised, the first arrivals in the morning being the maidservants, who gathered there with their water-pitchers or "stoups," to fill them with this well's excellent water, and gossip with each other while they waited their "turn." Water was more valued then than now: the ease and abundance with which it can to-day be obtained conducing to waste. Few houses or places of business then knew the luxury of having it 'neath their roofs. Another of these pump-wells stood at the foot of Glassford Street, now replaced by the gravitation water from Loch Katrine. All the famous spring-wells of bygone days have long since disappeared.
The first noticeable building on the north side of Argyle Street was the Black Bull Hotel, famed in its day, and much frequented by visitors. In 1849 this well-known house, after being eighty years a hotel, was transformed into a warehouse for the sale of soft goods by Messrs. Mann, Simpson, & Byars, of the Trongate. The business continues, but has greatly developed under Messrs. Mann, Byars & Co., whose premises now extend from Virginia Street to Glassford Street.
At 32 and 34 Argyle Street was a building where old Lloyd the actor and his son Arthur held what they called drawing-room entertainments. Afterwards Messrs. Wylie & Lochhead occupied these premises, and on their removal to their new warehouse the building was used for exhibitions of various kinds and was known as the Polytechnic. It was ultimately burned to the ground, and remained unbuilt upon for a time. At No. 42 was the printing office of Messrs. Muir & Gowans, who printed "Loyal Peter" Mackenzie's unstamped weekly Gazette. The matter of this newspaper generally was sarcastic and controversial. It sold at twopence. When it died Peter started the Reformers' Gazette, but it also gave up the ghost. At "Rory" (Mr. James Moir, tea merchant, Gallowgate, and also town councillor) Peter shot many sharp javelins from his two newspapers, but the worthy councillor, amused and never hurt by them, survived both the javelins and their thrower; for when Peter slept his long sleep "Rory" was "buirdly and fresh."
While many of the buildings in this street have been changed in appearance yet a few have retained their old-world look. Such is the case with the building where the Argyle Arcade enters: at the east corner of the entrance ever since I can remember there has stood a hatter's shop. At the west corner was a large furnishing ironmongery warehouse, which is now occupied by a bookseller. Fully sixty years ago the grocers in the city were alarmed at the advent of a London tea company which, with a great flourish, opened a shop at 118 and 120 Argyle Street. In a few months, however, failure overtook them, the housewives declining to be beguiled by the liberal promises of the company. At 152 Argyle Street was the Argyll Hotel, reckoned one of the best in its day, and frequented by the political reformers of that time. It has long been absorbed in the warehouse of Messrs. Stewart & M'Donald.
On the south side of Argyle Street, at the corner of Stockwell Street, were the Glasgow Examiner newspaper office and Angus' Temperance Hotel. At this corner gathered on Wednesday farmers and tradesmen of various crafts for the transaction of business. When their numbers multiplied they had to remove to St. Enoch Square, from whence they have been compelled by railway operations again to remove, and they now meet at the Corn Exchange, Hope Street. At 21 Argyle Street were the commercial and printing premises of the Glasgow Constitutional - a newspaper never very popular.
On both sides of Argyle Street were many courts and entries where old-world businesses were carried on quietly, but none the less successfully. A few of these I will now enumerate.
Sydney Court. - Mr. William Mirrlees had here his leather and saddlery factory before he removed to Buchanan Street. Here also was the printing office of Mr. William Rankin, where the Commonwealth newspaper was printed for a time. A large number of businesses were located here, several of which still continue.
Morrison's Court, entering at No. 108, had an extensive area with businesses in front and back lands. It had also through communication with Argyle Arcade and Buchanan Street, which gave it more importance. Messrs. Thomas Leadbetter & Co. had their lead works here at one time.
In Moodie's Court was the bookbinding business of Mr. William Carss, justly famed for the excellence of his work, and also the workshops of Messrs. P. & W. Fleming, ironmongers and blacksmiths. In this court was the famous Pope's Eye Tavern, an establishment still in existence.
Wellington Court was of small proportions, but here was the printing-office of Messrs. James Hedderwick & Sons, who for a number of months printed the Glasgow Argus, till it got premises of its own in Queen Street.
Wilson's Court was of fair proportions. Flax and produce merchants had their premises in it - one was Mr. J. Lawcock. Here also was the bookbinding establishment of Messrs. Robert Fairie & Son. This court is now entirely obliterated, through the enterprise of a tailor and clothier occupying the whole ground and extensive frontage for the display of his goods.
Adjacent to this court was the well-known Buck's Head Hotel, at the corner of Dunlop Street - a landmark in the city for many years. It was formerly the mansion-house of Provost Murdoch. Its front entrance was by a double flight of stairs, projecting on the pavement; this so narrowed the footway that it was felt to be a nuisance in such a busy part of Argyle Street. When I first saw the head waiter of this hotel I wondered why he wore a black patch over one of his eyes. Had he been asked he would have answered that he lost the sight of his eye in the Green when the great riot of cotton spinners took place, and the more evil-disposed of the excited thousands of men and women gathered there threw vitriol right and left among the crowd. Besides the waiter many were injured by the virulent liquid, and a man who was proved to have thrown a large quantity of it was found guilty of attempted murder and hanged.
At 75 Argyle Street was Buchanan Court, in which for many years the Glasgow Courier newspaper was situated. Before its decease its second last editor was William Motherwell, the poet. Peter Mackenzie's weekly newspaper, the Reformer's Gazette, when it commenced, had its office in this court; and here, too, were the office of the Glasgow Chronicle, the printing office of Messrs, Aird & Russell, and the drug warehouse of Messrs, Penfold & Co.
At 87 Argyle Street was Turner's Court, street-like in its buildings and industries of various descriptions, with dwelling houses of a superior class. In it was the printing and publishing offices of the Morning Journal. This court is now shorn of its proportions and importance since the railway crossed it.
Craig's Court, opposite Queen Street, was a very busy haunt, being the entrance both into Croy Place and Maxwell Street. In its front buildings were shops and warehouses, such as the auction-rooms of Messrs. M'Tear & Kempt, and the warehouse of Messrs. M'Intyre & Co., formerly at the corner of High Street and Gallowgate. The property was taken down to make way for the present handsome building, well known as Anderson's Polytechnic Warehouse, which was built at the cost of £27,000.
At No. 109 was Pratt's Court, occupied principally by residents of the better class, but now absorbed by different businesses. In this court were two well-known taverns which at one time did a big trade.
In St. Enoch's Wynd, directly opposite the Argyle Arcade, were many business premises, manufactories, and stores. The Night Asylum for the Houseless was situated here until it was removed to their new premises in North Frederick Street. At the foot of the wynd was an old-world dilapidated corner (when I knew it) known as "The Ark," a pen picture of which, with a description of some of its inhabitants, will be found on another page.
The many changes and removals which have taken place along the frontage of Argyle Street, have greatly improved its appearance and made it more elegant than it was fifty to sixty years ago. By the transforming hand of the architect, I can scarcely recognize in the altered but handsome frontage and plate-glass windows of Messrs. Allan, Dick & Buchanan's warehouse at the corner of St. Enoch's Square, the old-fashioned warehouse of repute belonging to Messrs. Kevan & Buttle.
Going westwards dingy-looking tenements could be noticed, now transformed into the large warehouse known as "The Bonanza," having its frontage extending to Adam's Court Lane, which in the early days of the century formed an important outlet from the houses and warehouses entering from Jamaica Street and St. Enoch Square. Where Messrs. Robert Simpson & Sons' warehouse stands at the corner of Jamaica Street, originally there was a small "hair-cutting and shaving shop" which in those days was very much patronised by the respectable inhabitants of the neighbouring village of Grahamston. From this corner the view of Argyle Street westward is greatly marred by the bridge of the Caledonian Railway, which here crosses the street. A little beyond this bridge stand the handsome Madeira Buildings and Court, in the front and back premises of which various industries are carried on. The Madeira Court of former days was a large open space with a superior mansion on either side. The one was occupied by Mr. Yuill of Darleith, and the other by Mr. Samuel Hunter, the genial editor of the Glasgow Herald, of whom many curious stories are told. From here to the end of Argyle Street are warehouses and shops of every description.
Proceeding westward, the following streets branch off towards the river:- Oswald Street, Robertson Street, York Street, James Watt Street, Brown Street, Carrick Street, M'Alpine Street, and Washington Street. Each has a history of its own and been named after some important merchant or benefactor of the city. Neither time nor space will permit me to give further particulars concerning them.
Turning back by the north side are found Bishop Street, Pitt Street, Douglas Street, Mains Street, West Campbell Street, Wellington Street, and Hope Street, and I can do no more than name them.
Having finished the ramble along Trongate and Argyle Street, I must retrace my steps and make short excursions into the streets which branch off both sides, merely mentioning to the reader that the streets I am about to describe constituted the greater portion of the City of my boyhood. I will begin with
VIRGINIA STREET. - This street got its name in 1753 by Provost Andrew Buchanan of Drumpellier and his son, George, who built the Virginia Mansion which stood at the head of the street, and upon which now stands the Union Bank of Scotland. Most of the Virginian tobacco lords had their offices in Virginia Street. The first house actually built in the street was the Thistle Bank, the City of Glasgow Bank afterwards occupying its site till its failure on 2nd October, 1878. Now it is occupied by Messrs. Mann, Byars & Co., warehousemen. The Glasgow Apothecaries' Company have carried on business in this street for many years, first in their old, and then in their new and extensive premises built after a calamitous fire. Adjoining this was the financial office of the Glasgow Gas Company.
MILLER STREET, next to Virginia Street, was opened in 1753, and was named after John Miller of Westerton, through whose property it was carried. His house was at the south-east comer. On its site was built the Western Bank which started in 1832 and failed in 1857. In this street many lawyers had their offices. Nearly at its top were the coach-building premises of Bailie M'Clelland, a citizen of no mean renown in his day. Considerable interest is felt in this street, because Mr. Walter Stirling, the founder of the Stirling Library lived here. His house and library he bequeathed to the city, and the latter has been largely taken advantage of. Mr. Simpson was librarian for many years, then Mr. Blair and Mr. Mason; it is now under the superintendence of Mr. Hutton. This library, the centenary of which was held fully two years ago in the large hall of the Municipal Buildings, is more valued to-day than at any former period of its existence. Besides its many rare and precious relics, the library also contains one for the antiquary: I refer to the handsome table in the library-room, the top of which is made out of a portion of Bishop Rae's bridge, which was built over the Clyde in 1350.
In the building formerly occupied by the offices of the Glasgow Water Company the valuable books and MSS. of the Mitchell Library have now found a permanent home. Mr. Barrett, the librarian, is giving faithful attention to his official duties. The position that this excellent library has now attained is chiefly owing to the unwearied zeal of the late Bailie Wilson of West Pollokshields and successive conveners of Corporation library Committees.
The present QUEEN STREET, in olden times known by the name of the Cow Loan, was opened in 1777, the name being changed to Queen Street in honour of Queen Charlotte. The loan consisted of a long range of narrow strips of back garden ground, attached to the front properties in Trongate and Argyle Street. At the west corner of Queen Street was a well-known landmark, the shop of Mr. Gray the jeweller; behind it was an unused malt kiln. On the east side, up till about fifty years ago, the shop of Messrs. Lumsden & Son was the only other shop at that part of the street. Mr. Lumsden had his dwelling house here, also, and in the same building the Anti-Corn Law League had an office. The building has now given place to a range of handsome warehouses and shops, built of red sandstone, to be occupied by the proprietors, Messrs. Willis, Neilson & Co. In my early years there was very little of architectural beauty in Queen Street. What chiefly brought it into repute was the erection of the Royal Exchange in 1829, at a cost of £60,000. The site of the Exchange was in 1778 a farm.
It was bought by William Cunninghame, who built thereon one of the finest houses in the West of Scotland, said to have cost £10,000, a very large sum in those days. At Mr. Cunninghame's death it was bought by the old firm of Messrs. William Stirling &: Sons. One of the wings was occupied by the firm, while the rest of the house was for twenty-eight years occupied by members of the family. In 1817 it was purchased by the Royal Bank, which did business there till 1827. At that time a number of leading gentlemen, finding the coffee-house at the Cross insufficient, bought from the bank its building, and under Mr. Hamilton the architect great additions and alterations were made, and the old mansion house was transformed into the present Royal Exchange. The original house still forms the front portion immediately within the portico: its curious nest of small apartments, now mostly occupied by shipbroking and insurance offices, at once indicates the extent of the establishment.
In October, 1844, a bronze equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, costing about £10,000, was erected in his honour in front of the Exchange. The Royal Bank built for themselves suitable premises behind the Exchange, where they still are. On the west side of Queen Street above the Royal Exchange buildings there stood the Theatre Royal of Glasgow. It was a most handsome edifice, both within and without, and cost nearly £19,000. Opened on 24th April, 1805, it was on Saturday forenoon, 10th January, 1829, totally destroyed by fire. Sixty years since there stood at the top of Queen Street the mansion house and grounds of James Ewing, Esq., M.P. Its "craw" rookery was well known in Glasgow and neighbourhood.
From day to day the quiet of Queen Street was broken by the noisy "ca, ca" of the crows. When the Edinburgh and Glasgow Railway came into existence the house and grounds were acquired for its station and offices. The trees had to be felled, and the crows found a roosting place elsewhere. It is believed by many that they actually migrated to the trees around Strathleven when the family removed there. The old Cow Loan, too, has lost its pastoral appearance, and the place where the cows fed has become a scene of trade and traffic of no ordinary extent.
Where the National Bank of Scotland stands was the site of the town house of Kirkman Finlay of Toward Castle. Opposite it were tenements of a commonplace character. When they were taken down elegant buildings were erected in their stead and vitality given to business, especially by the firm of Messrs. Arthur & Co.
ST. VINCENT PLACE was originally a quiet residential corner. Here many of our professional and commercial men resided. It is now a busy business locality. The spacious chambers of the Bank of Scotland are here at the corner of George Square. Adjoining are the printing and publishing offices of the Evening Citizen. Further west is the Clydesdale Bank, and on either side are the offices of important insurance and commercial companies. Crossing Buchanan Street to St. Vincent Street we come to the new building of the old Western Club. On both sides of this well-known street are fashionable shops, while the offices are legion. Its busy bustle contrasts with the slow going ways of former days.
BUCHANAN STREET was opened up in 1804, the lower portion of it a few years earlier. It derived its name from Andrew Buchanan, whose mansion stood at the south-west corner, with its cultivated garden ground extending towards Mitchell Street - the extensive warehouse of Messrs. Stewart & M'Donald, and shops or various kinds, now occupying the whole site, and also that of the court and buildings occupied by the old established business of Messrs. G. & J. Burns, shipowners. They entered from No. 9 (a cart entry) and continued here to increase and develop till their removal to present premises in Jamaica Street. Alexander Gordon (known as "Picture Gordon") had a house built for himself above that belonging to his brother, and fronting Gordon Street, which thus derived its name from him. For some years there was only one house (that of John Gordon) on the east side of the street immediately above the Arcade. A portion of the south wall of the garden of this house, it is said, still forms an abutment to the north wall of the Arcade. It was here, on the site of Princes Square, that the great pavilion was erected for the Peel banquet, at which there were present 3,300 persons. It was held on 13th January, 1837, and I remember the commotion and enthusiasm it aroused. Sir Robert Peel had been elected Lord Rector of the University, and on the occasion of his installation was entertained to dinner by the citizens. In replying to the toast of the students, Mr. Norman Macleod (late Dr. Norman Macleod) spoke as follows:-
MR. CHAIRMAN, - I will not intrude upon you, sir, any of the feelings under which I now rise, except those of pride in being the representative of my fellow-students upon such an occasion as the present, and of having it in my power to express, in their name, the deep sense we entertain of the honour which has now been conferred upon us. I know, sir, that the opinions of young men are, in general, held in little estimation -I know that of late the judgment of the "boys" has been frequently sneered at - I know many think that students should have no political influence, and they would as much as possible, curtail the means which we now possess of publicly expressing our sentiments. But surely the simple fact does not derogate either from the value of our opinions, the soundness of our judgments, or the manner in which our political influence has been exercised, that the same individual is at once our Lord Rector, and the object of the deep admiration and of the warm attachment of such an assemblage as I now see around me! And since we had important privileges, we felt that important duties were connected with them. We felt ourselves called upon to promote, by their means, those views which, I trust, young men may cherish as fondly, and defend as firmly, as those of more advanced age and experience. As students, therefore, our first object was to elect a distinguished scholar to fill the office of Lord Rector, and, may I be permitted to remark, that the influence of such a qualification has already been felt; for I know that, from the kind advices and the cheering encouragements given to us by our Rector, whose own life affords the most brilliant confirmation of their truth and value, many students have drawn additional motives to vigorous exertion in the overcoming of difficulties, and have imbibed a loftier enthusiasm in their pursuit of literature and science. Warmly attached to our venerable University, we wished to see presiding over it one who, in these days of innovation and paltry economy, was both able and willing to defend her rights and her privileges.
On the west side of the street were the Dilettanti Rooms, well known in their day, and a little higher up (on the site of the present Herald buildings) were the Monteith Rooms, which used to be let for entertainments, etc. I was present at a soiree connected with Gorbals Parish Church (Rev. Alexander Turner) held in these rooms in 1836. The chief speaker was Rev. Mr. Smith, minister of Relief Church in Campbeltown, who for seven years contested a case in the Court of Session to get his church conveyed over to the Church of Scotland. St. George's Church, from its position and architectural character, forms a feature in the street. The bell in the well-proportioned steeple has the following inscription:-
I to the church the people call,
And to the grave I summon all.
With much ceremony its foundation-stone was laid on 3rd June, 1807, the city dignitaries being accompanied by the Glasgow regiment (the 71st). The Western Club, opened in 1841, is a building of quiet style, and contrasts with the distinctive characteristics of the more recently erected Stock Exchange adjoining it.
The first building erected in the street was a three-storeyed tenement at the south-east corner, with a front to Argyle Street. It is still standing: the ground floor, altered into shops in 1822, is at present occupied by the jewellry establishment of Mr. Robert Stewart.
While at one time business was chiefly centred in Trongate, Glassford Street, etc., yet the palm must now be given to Buchanan Street. Its fine buildings, offices, warehouses, and shops are all first-class, the quality of the merchandise attracting the best customers in and around the city. The vehicular traffic is so great that the street is occasionally too narrow for the volume, and every hour of the day it is thronged with pedestrians.
The unpretentious look of MITCHELL STREET, as you enter, does not give anyone an idea of the amount of business carried on therein. It is the principal avenue for the arrival and despatch of goods connected with Messrs. Stewart and M'Donald, Messrs. Wylie & Lochhead, Messrs. Smith Sons & Laughland, the Herald printing department, etc. Fifty years ago it was quite as busy as a street, but with merchandise of a different character. It then had its iron foundry, cotton and grain stores, calenderers, woodyard, and various workshops and dwelling-houses.
UNION STREET for many years had no special fame. In 1830 it had, to the best of my recollection, but one shop, occupied by the Perth Baking Company, of which Thomas Hutchison was manager. This concern had one bread van for the north, south, east, and west of Glasgow. Near this shop was a horse bazaar, which had a stone figure of a horse at the top of the entrance. Upon this site is one of the most handsome ranges of warehouse property in the city, designed by the renowned "Greek" Thomson. Adjacent to the bazaar was a Unitarian Church, which was afterwards transformed into the printing and publishing premises of the North British Daily Mail. The other tenements, occupied as dwelling-houses, have now disappeared. Where the Caledonian Railway goods office now is used to be the stores and offices of the Campsie Alum Co., and on same side at the corner of Gordon Street were a range of byres and stables. Union Street has greatly developed, and can to-day boast of many large and splendid buildings. Its proximity to the Caledonian Railway station and the busy Gordon Street has given to it great and growing prosperity.
What would the sanitary authorities of to-day say to the state of matters that existed in the city less than fifty years ago? Near the foot of Wellington Street, in a back land entering from Argyle Street, stood a small building of two storeys, the lower part of which consisted of two apartments: that to the right as you entered was occupied by an old man named Johnnie Naysmith and his wife; the other end of the house was occupied by Johnnie's horse and Johnnie's wife's cow. The apartment in which Johnnie and his wife lived was kept scrupulously clean, the fireside being as white as her cow's milk. An outside stair led to the upper storey, in which lived a workman, his wife, and a large family of children. Two or three steps up the same stair was a public convenience for the use of the residents in the front and back lands, and anyone else. This was but a sample of what existed in many other parts of the city, and was lightly thought of. Thanks to the sanitary legislation of the Corporation for the decency and sweetness that now exist!
I have described the north side of the main thoroughfare of the city from Glassford Street to Union Street, and I now proceed to briefly sketch its south side, beginning with the renowned "Stockwell" - a street of much interest to all lovers of St. Mungo.
STOCKWELL STREET, formerly known as Stockwall-gait, was for several centuries the dwelling-place of the aristocrats of Glasgow, and was the chief highway from the north to the south side of the city by the historic old bridge. On the west side of this street was the south sugarhouse, and in a small corner of this refinery was the world-known office of Messrs. Pollok, Gilmour, & Co., at one time the largest shipowners in the country. On the same side was born John Graham, better known as John Graham Gilbert, the celebrated portrait painter. On its east side was born Major-General Sir Thomas Munroe, than whom, to use the words of George Canning, "Europe never produced a more accomplished statesman, nor India, so fertile in heroes, a more skilful soldier."
For a long period Stockwell was noted for its countrified aspect. This arose from the circumstance that the Cattle Market was held here. Till the establishment of the market in Graham's Square, it was the rendezvous of the servants open for hire, who were usually "arled" at the Brig-end. Here the farmers met on the Wednesdays till they shifted to St. Enoch Square; now they meet at the Corn Exchange. On its west side was the Sheriff Chambers. Fifty years ago the familiar figures of Sheriffs Alison and Bell were daily seen going to and returning from their legal duties.
At the foot of the street at the side of the bridge was the Horse Brae. Here the horses with their carts crossed the river by a ford which went at an angle to the foot of Buchan Street. Only those carters who knew its intricacies could cross the ford successfully, as there were deep holes in the bottom of the river. When it was in flood many lives were lost. The Horse Brae was a resort of the boys of the neighbourhood. Here they fished and bathed.
Nearly half-way down Stockwell Street, on the west side where Stockwell Place now stands, was a sugar refinery. For many years it did a large business. In the third decade of this century it gave place to a range of dwelling houses and shops.
Opposite Stockwell Place was one of the cool old pump wells, where the pedestrian got his thirst quenched. At this part were the carriers' quarters for traffic to and from Ayrshire. On the building at the west corner of this street and Clyde Place was a sign-board informing the lieges of the departure of the Clyde steamers to the watering-places on the coast.
Jackson Street extended from Stockwell Street to Dunlop Street, and branching from it was Ropework Lane, in which was situated a celebrated ropework. Its chief proprietor was the well-known James Oswald, one of Glasgow's first M.P.'s appointed under the powers of the Reform Bill. His statue stands in George Square. In this lane, too, was the well-known tobacco-pipe manufactory of Alexander Coghill, where I used to watch, in passing, the making and burning in the kiln, of the long clay pipes, and also the "cutties," much used by smokers in my younger days. Adjoining this, and belonging to the same proprietor, was a large silversmith work. Near Ropework Lane, and facing the Clyde, was the old Town's Hospital, opened in 1713, the first hospital in Scotland for the poor.
While it existed it smoothed the path of many afflicted ones. The old fish-market before its removal to the Briggate occupied the spot where the hospital stood. Behind the hospital, separated by a broad area, was a two-storey high building. In the first flat were placed the cells for lunatics and disorderly persons. On the second was an infirmary for the sick. The buildings accommodated 600 persons. In this lane stood the well-known St. Enoch School, which in its day was one of the best-conducted and largest schools in the city.
DUNLOP STREET for a long series of years had various ups and downs. It was called after Provost Colin Dunlop of Carmyle. His son, John Dunlop, also Provost of Glasgow, was an accomplished writer. Several of his songs have come down till to-day, viz.: "O, dinna tell me gin I lo'e ye," and "Here's to the year that's awa'." The first feuar in this street was Dr. Moore, the author of "Zelucco," and the father of Sir John Moore. On its eastern side stood the Theatre Royal, which under Mr. Alexander's management underwent several changes. There are still alive not a few who can recollect the excitement in the city, when, on Saturday night, the 17th February, 1849, a false alarm of fire was raised when the theatre was well filled. A rush was made to get out, one of the doors got jammed, and sixty-five persons were trampled to death, besides a great number being injured. In January, 1863, this old theatre was burnt down. It was immediately rebuilt, and continued to flourish till taken down by the Union Railway Company in 1869. Messrs. Lumsden & Son, stationers, had their warehouse in this street, but removed seventy years ago to Queen Street, where they continued till a year ago. Besides containing the Theatre Royal, Dunlop Street for a number of years had also some industries.
In it was the large cooperage of J. Macgregor, and Messrs. J. Henderson & Co., coach-builders, here carried on their business till they removed to North Street. At the north side of the theatre was the printing office of Messrs. E. Khull & Son, where I used to work as a compositor. These premises were afterwards occupied as the printing and publishing offices of the North British Daily Mail until they were removed to Union Street. At No. 32, opposite the Theatre Royal, was the popular academy of Alexander J. B. D'Orséy, who was well known as a distinguished teacher. The aspect of this is wholly changed through the operations of the railway.
MAXWELL STREET was called after Stephen Maxwell of Morriston, an extensive coppersmith and chief partner in the Merchants' Banking Company. With its antique court and genteel residences, it was always a quiet street, but grew livelier when it became the thoroughfare for persons wishing to cross to the south side of the river by Portland Street accommodation bridge, and latterly by the suspension bridge. The street has now become disfigured and uninviting for pedestrians, owing to the darkness caused by the width of the bridge carrying the railway station above. Through the same cause Stormont Street, Eagle Lane, the London Temperance Hotel, and the well-known and busy Eagle Hotel and hostelry, have all been entirely swept away. Only one side of Croy Place now remains.
ST. ENOCH SQUARE, the next point of interest, was opened in 1782. It was then very quiet, with St. Enoch's burn running through it, and falling into the river close to Broomielaw Bridge. Its old church was erected in 1780, on the site of an old chapel, dedicated to St. Thanew, and the church of to-day was built in 1827, the old steeple remaining untouched.
The square has undergone important changes, and at the present moment the parish is without resident parishioners. The original houses on the west side have been rebuilt and turned into places of business. On its east side stood the Medical Faculty Hall; in its lower floor Stirling's Public Library was originally kept, and on either side of this were self-contained houses occupied by well-to-do citizens. The centre portion of the square was railed all round, and inside the rails grew and flourished trees, shrubs, and flowers. These have long since disappeared. Further changes have happened since then; and even now there is in progress here the formation of a central station for the new suburban circular underground railway. The South-Western Railway's handsome station and hotel, built in 1880 at the cost of £500,000, now occupy nearly the whole of the east side, with a range of shops underneath, on the street level.
HOWARD and DIXON STREETS, contiguous to St. Enoch Square, once peaceful streets, are now "bee-hives" of industry of various kinds. Owing to the demand for business premises the value of property has greatly increased in the district. Well do I recollect the old brick wall which ran from the north end of Dixon Street to Jamaica Street, and from the foot of that street along Great Clyde Street to the west corner of Dixon Street. In the centre of this walled square stood the famous bottle-work, visible in some of the early pictures of the city.
JAMAICA STREET, opened in 1763, possesses none of the historical prestige of Stockwell Street, and in the beginning of this century had little traffic. I well remember on the east side the shipping office of Messrs. Thomson & M'Connell. They occupied what had been formerly a splendid mansion, with two flights of stairs meeting on a spacious landing for the entrance.
There were also in this side several shops, stores, dwelling-houses, and workshops; but from Howard Street to the Clyde side there was nothing but the dead brick wall, about ten feet high, which enclosed the bottle-work. The Custom House is built on part of this ground. How different now with its buildings, offices, and busy shops, and crowded pavement! On the west side was the warehouse of the Leith Sailcloth Company, with its high-pointed gable to the street, from the top of which a beam projected, with rope and tackle attached, for the taking in or despatch of goods. The pavement was thus blocked for pedestrians while the hoisting operations were going on. At the corner of Ann Street was the Royal Circus or "Riding School," which was afterwards turned into "the Tabernacle" of the Rev. Greville Ewing, who removed with his congregation to West Nile Street Chapel. For many years there stood at the north corner of Ann Street (where Messrs. Gardner & Son's warehouse is) a low range of houses occupied as stables and byres; and in the "pen" close immediately above was the cooperage of Bailie M'Gregor.
The arrival of herring boats and "wherries" at the Broomielaw Bridge caused a great stir and attracted the inhabitants from the villages of Smithfield, Brownfield, and Grahamston, and in later years from Calton and Bridgeton. The removal of the bottle-works and the rebuilding of the bridge in 1834 increased building and advanced trade. The street being the direct avenue for traffic to the south side, and also being the nearest way to the bridge wharf from which the steamboats started, became a busy highway and brought prosperity to shopkeepers and traders in the locality. As years have rolled on the Broomielaw and Clyde steamboat traffic has grown in importance, and is now known the whole world over.
A landmark for seafaring men was an outfitting establishment at the west corner of Broomielaw, now occupied by Paisley's warehouse. The premises of the present Colosseum were opened about 1849 as the Polytechnic Exhibition of Arts and Sciences. The variety of exhibits and the instructive lectures given made it popular for a time, and attracted visitors from all parts of the city and neighbourhood. Every foot of building ground has been utilised for business purposes, so that there does not now remain a single vestige of the Jamaica Street of 1819.
The old burgh boundaries of Glasgow proper were not very extensive. Its western boundary extended only to Union Street. Beyond it, on the north and west sides of what is named Argyle Street, were three villages, called Grahamston, Brownfield, and Anderston.
Grahamston extended from Union Street to Hope Street, including Alston Street (now the Central Railway Station). Here was once the only theatre in or about the city.
Brownfield was called after its founder, Mr. Brown, a manufacturer who used the ground as his bleachfields. At the foot of York Street, the chief street of Brownfield, was a saw pit, belonging to a Mr. Kay. The saw pit was used as a preaching station for the sailors then frequenting the Broomielaw, and this was the germ of the Seamen's Friend Society which has done, and is still doing, noble work among the toilers of the deep.
I do not consider it desirable to cumber these pages with too much of what may be called "architectural alterations," which would be the case if I were to describe the streets from Union Street westward. I might say, "Here is a new street," and "Here is a street that has seen changes," but I will pass them with the homely proverb, "Enough is as good's a feast."
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