Glimpses of old Glasgow

Part I. Historical

Glasgow (Central and North-West)

GORDON STREET. - How different the Gordon Street of to-day from that of my youth! Business houses and offices were not numerous then. On the north side from Renfield Street to Hope Street was wholly occupied with three churches: in the centre was the United Presbyterian Church, under the ministry of Dr. Beattie; on the east was Renfield Free Church, under the ministry of Rev. Mr. M'Nab (formerly Rev. Dr. Willis); on the west, at the corner of Hope Street, was the Free Gaelic Church, under the ministry of Rev. W. M'Gilvray. Those have all given place to warehouses and suites of offices equal to any in the city. Where the busy Central Railway Station now stands was Alston Street, with old fashioned grain stores on either side. In Hope Street, facing Gordon Street, where the Central pile of buildings now are, the spot used to be familiarly known as "Tam's Green" (Thomas Gray being lessee). It was a public washing and bleaching green for the inhabitants in the neighbourhood.

BOTHWELL STREET - when laid off for building purposes, the level was raised to meet the requirements of Bothwell Circus, where it joins St. Vincent Street. Many a happy day have I spent playing in and around these empty building stances, now freighted with towering and handsome piles of masonry. This street bids fair to out-rival architecturally any of our best streets. Here we have the "Allan" and "State" Line shipping offices; also those of Messrs. George Smith & Sons of the "City" Line; the Conservative Club, and the Central Agency Offices, consisting of the firms of Messrs. James Brook & Bros., Messrs. Clark & Co., John Clark, Junr., & Co., Messrs. J. & P. Coats (Limited), Messrs. Lister & Co. (Limited). Here, too, in 1880 were reared the halls and rooms of the Christian Institute, embracing, as it does, the Young Men's Christian Association, the Sabbath School Union, and the Foundry Boys' Religious Society.

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WEST NILE STREET has of late years been developing more business "go" than formerly. My recollection of that street is associated with the Independent Church at the corner of Drury Street, under the ministry of Rev. Greville Ewing, Some years ago, when the congregation removed to their new church in Waterloo Street, the building was converted into offices, and afterwards rebuilt into more stylish offices, as at present. Opposite to West Regent Street used to be the Prince of Wales Theatre, which was afterwards altered into a circus. It is now occupied as a horse bazaar, and for carriage hiring.

DRURY STREET is a short thoroughfare connecting West Nile Street with Renfield Street, at one time of little business importance. I think here must have been located the last of the establishments for letting out sedan chairs to the public. I well remember in this street a signboard giving a pictorial representation of one of these chairs, with the rates for hire.

RENFIELD STREET, as a continuation of Union Street, early acquired a business look, and as a tramway route and thoroughfare to the north and west has developed a large amount of traffic. It never had an old world-look, so the changes have not been very marked. On the east side, where the City of Glasgow Assurance Company have their office, stood St. Mary's Episcopal Church before removing to Great Western Road. I remember hearing the incumbent - Rev. Mr. Montgomery - preach there a special sermon to young men.

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SAUCHIEHALL STREET, and streets branching off, were at one time reckoned quiet streets. At the east end the tenements of houses were humble in character and appearance, and no less humble were its shops. Houses and shops of a superior class began to be erected further west. A memorable incident is here brought to my recollection. Upon the completion of the buildings immediately west of Douglas Street, one of the shops was opened for the sale of provisions. As a signboard to attract customers a ham was hung out. One morning, to the consternation of the proprietor, the ham had disappeared; some one had stolen it. On the following day it was returned by the disgusted thief, on finding that it was only a wooden imitation, painted in realistic style.

The old-fashioned railed-in lawn greatly prevailed in front of the self-contained houses which lined a good portion of this street, but with the erection of modern buildings these were soon covered over. The first that stood out prominently was the warehouse of Messrs. Copland & Lye. Other large and stylish shops and warehouses followed on the same side of the street. Here also has the Fine Art Institute secured for itself a beautiful home of its own, well-adapted for the exhibition of pictures, etc. The Corporation Galleries, open free to the public, have always some artistic articles on view, besides the valuable pictures bequeathed to the city by the late Bailie M'Lellan. The amenity of the street has led to the location of several hotels in it. The Grand Hotel and Charing Cross Mansions, both at the corner of St. George's Road, are high-class buildings and adorn the locality. Beyond Charing Cross the street still retains its residential character.

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ST. GEORGE'S ROAD was a quiet road with villas on either side. These mansions are being replaced by shops and other places of trade. There has been growth in this street northward. St. George's-in-the-fields, a chapel of ease, once stood alone; to-day around it are numerous tenements of respectable middle-class houses. Industries of all kinds are in operation in the neighbourhood. The old Port-Dundas and Cowcaddens districts are thriving commercial quarters of the city.

When St. Stephen's Church and the U.P. Church in Cambridge Street were opened in 1834 the population in this quarter was sparse; in 1894 it is dense, one of the factors in this growth being the Normal seminaries. It may be in the recollection of some of my readers that Kyle's Cotton Mills were where the Grand Theatre is, and that Mr. Thomas Edington's mansion-house and the Phoenix Foundry stood where presently is the recently opened up children's recreation ground so generously provided by the Corporation.

The Rosehall tea gardens were famed in their day. Rosehall Street now occupies the site. Large quarries were prevalent in this district - a famous one was at the corner where Abercorn Street and New City Road meet.

Passing westward we arrive at what is familiarly known as St. George's Cross.

NEW CITY ROAD from here continues its course until it merges into the Maryhill Road at the old toll. The buildings in this thoroughfare literally join those of the old burgh of Maryhill, which happily forms part of "Greater Glasgow."

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The GREAT WESTERN ROAD is the principal artery of traffic for the districts of Hillhead, Dowanhill, and Kelvinside. All who knew this neighbourhood sixty years ago, with a farm house here and there, cannot but marvel at its growth and extension. Even within the last three or four decades I have seen striking changes, not only in the increase of superior dwellings but in churches of a high order of architecture. St. Mary's Episcopal Church with its handsome spire stands out most prominently. So also does that of Lansdowne United Presbyterian Church; and as we pass to the crest of the hill, Kelvinside Free Church and spire come into view, and break the uniformity as we look along the long vista of Great Western Road, with its mansions and terraces, where reside some of our merchant princes.

Approaching Kelvinside, which not so many years ago was considered far out of the city, many improvements may be seen; among them the beautiful bridge now spanning the Kelvin, and northward the numberless abodes of the wealthy and professional classes.

The districts of Hillhead and Dowanhill have also come rapidly to the front. The villas and mansions in these suburbs are very fine. The population is increasing, and the various denominations are well represented in the number of churches. Perhaps the growth of Glasgow westward has been aided by the opening up of the West-End Park on the grounds of Kelvingrove, so famed in song; and also more recently from planting the University with its majestic proportions on the hill on the opposite side of the Kelvin valley - its lofty site giving it quite a noble and dignified appearance, and enabling it to be seen far and near. If these new buildings exist as a seat of learning as many centuries as its predecessor did in High Street, what will Glasgow then be in size and population? From the higher terraces of the West-End Park most expansive views are to be obtained of our own and neighbouring counties, and with its terraced walks, fountain, lakelet, and flower-plots, the whole scene is rural and refreshing.