| Glasgow Digital Library | Ebooks | Title page | Contents | Indexes |
|---|
GORBALS. - The earliest authentic records show that the Gorbal lands belonged to the family of Lennox. The lands afterwards passed into the possession of the Church, and it is supposed that they were given by the Bishop of Glasgow to George Elphinstone as a marriage portion to his niece or daughter. Till 1634 the lands were held by the Elphinstone family, who were also possessors of the lands of Blythswood, and one of whom, Sir George Elphinstone, was Provost of Glasgow from 1600 to 1606.
The barony and regality of Gorbals was confirmed on 9th July, 1606, by a charter of James VI. This charter gave Gorbals full power "to carry on merchandise and manufactories." By it Sir George Elphinstone was vested with all the powers of regality over said barony. From him these powers descended to Sir Robert Douglas of Blackerstone, who in 1650 disponed Gorbals to Glasgow's magistrates for behoof of the city, the Trades' House, and Hutchesons' Hospital. The magistrates accepted the charge, and for a time ingathered the rents and duties and divided them: one fourth to the city, one fourth to the Trades' House, and the remaining half to Hutchesons' Hospital. In 1790 the lands were divided into lots; the City acquired the old feus of Gorbals and Bridgend, and also the Kingston portion of the Barony of Gorbals; the Trades' House obtained the section west of a line parallel with the present Eglinton Street; and the remaining section lying to the east and south was allocated to Hutchesons' Hospital. The districts are now known as Hutchesontown, Gorbals, Laurieston, and Tradeston.
In all these districts the ratio of increased value of land is very great. For instance, Hutchesons' Hospital's share of these lands, which in 1650 cost them £3,388, was valued in 1792 at £9,447; and again in 1843, on a report made by skilled surveyors, the unfeued portion was estimated at £65,076, and the feu-duties disposed of taken at twenty-two years' purchase were stated in the accounts at £74,503, or together £139,579. On the same basis, at the present day, the Hospital's capital in Hutchesontown lands is £375,527; its feu-duties and rental being nearly £18,000 per annum.
Long ago the Main Street, Gorbals, was the chief street which existed on the south side of the river. It was neither beautiful nor broad, being extremely narrow at one point, with scarcely a semblance of pavement. Narrow as it was, it was wide enough for the business transacted in it; but when Bishop Rae built the old bridge in 1343 it facilitated communication.
Early in this century the Barony of Gorbals had a population of five or six thousand inhabitants. At that time Hutchesontown, Laurieston, and Tradeston were green fields, dotted with farm-houses.
The Main Street, when I first knew it, was the centre of the Gorbals trade, and the highway between the north and south. Its buildings were far from being imposing, thatched roofs prevailing. Its shops were few, and the value of their stocks not very great. Its notable building was the old Baronial Hall, or mansion house of the Elphinstone family, standing at the corner of Main Street and Rutherglen Loan on ground which formed part of "St. Ninian's Croft." The Elphinstone policies stretched along the street, and were surrounded by a wall. For a number of years on the south side of this wall all kinds of goods, new and old, were regularly exposed for sale.
The mansion house towards the close of last century became the police office of Gorbals, and continued so till the erection of the one in South Portland Street, more than sixty years ago. (As I write, a new and enlarged police station is almost completed. Its site is at the corner of Nicolson and Oxford Streets.) The staff of officials in this house of correction was small. It was quite a feature to watch the manner of lighting of the streets: as gloaming came on the lamplighters would be seen emerging from the office with lighted torches in hand and ladders on their right shoulders.
After this police office was vacated it was turned into a public-house, and did, alas! a big trade; but circumstances brought about another change, and it became a drapery establishment. By the City Improvement Act this building and many adjoining it were taken down, and in their stead others were erected. Under the powers of the same Act, guided by the Dean of Guild Court, the buildings in this street and district have been rebuilt in a style that leaves nothing to be desired: a broad street, handsome shops and warehouses, and comfortable dwelling houses, with a central open space containing fountain and clock. The transformation is complete, and great the contrast from what it was in its days of dirt and squalor. I have known the locality from my very earliest years. None of the old landmarks are visible, except a few above the old Puddock Row, now known as Bedford Lane.
At the head of Main Street are the stations of the Union Railway, the Glasgow, Barrhead, and Kilmarnock Joint Line, and the Glasgow and South-Westem Railway.
On the west side of the Main Street there branched off Kirk Street and Malta Street or Paisley Loan (now completely obliterated), the tenements in which were humble dwellings for the working classes. In Malta Street, opposite Buchan Street, were the works of the old Gorbals Iron Foundry: its proprietor was the much-esteemed Bailie Roberton.
Buchan Street ran from Clyde Place to Paisley Loan. In it was located the old Gorbals Parish Church, which had an extremely high roof. Its builder was Mr. Robert Aitken, who also built the old Assembly Rooms in Ingram Street, and the mansion-house of Ardgowan, Inverkip, one of the seats of the Stewarts. The old church was formed into a chapel-of-ease after the present parish church was erected. In the forenoon the service was conducted in Gaelic; in the afternoon in English. A Mr. Mackenzie was long its minister. The Rev. Dr. Maclean was for many years the highly-respected minister of the Gorbals Parish Church. Unfortunately the heritors and he went to law, and the letter and the spirit of the 133rd psalm were forgotten. In 1833 he died. His funeral sermon was preached by the late revered Dr. Brown of St. John's Parish Church. These streets and buildings are here also totally changed in appearance.
MUIRHEAD STREET was known as "Warm Water Street," owing to the flow of waste warm water from a mill here into the Clyde. A distillery occupies extensive premises in this street.
In a line with PUDDOCK ROW was GREENSIDE STREET, on the north side of which was erected in 1836 the Gorbals Youths' School on the site of an old ropework. Greenside Public School occupies a site adjacent. At the corner fronting Hospital Street was a quoad sacra church, now known as Hutchesontown Parish Church.
PORTUGAL STREET consisted largely of dwelling houses for working people. Its chief building was the Lancasterian School, which never was very popular. What is now known as Eglinton Street United Presbyterian Church had its conception in this institution. Its members met there for worship till the present church was built and ready for divine service. Its site was a gift from Mr. Laurie, of Laurieston.
In SURREY STREET there was a charitable institute for girls, known by the name of the M'Farlane School. At the south corner of this street and Bedford Lane was built a handsome new structure for the members of Buchan Street Church, in which for several years met the congregation under the ministry of the Rev. Jonathan Anderson. He was an earnest pastor who became celebrated for holding before his congregation the terrors of hell, and who sometimes gave such vivid word-pictures of that place of woe that timorous, or it may be conscience-stricken, persons fainted at the appalling vision. It is recorded that the captain of a vessel, loaded with sulphur, when enquiring for a possible customer for his cargo was sent to Mr. Anderson. He told the reverend gentleman that he had been informed that Mr. Anderson dealt largely in sulphur. Mr. Anderson replied that he did, but just now he had more of that commodity on hand than he had a present use for. In later years Mr. Anderson, with a number of his members, left the Free Church. They erected for themselves a little building in Margaret Street, off Eglinton Street, but remained unconnected with any denomination.
Situated in Rutherglen Road is the old Gorbals burying-ground. Up till the opening of the Southern Necropolis in Oatlands district, more than half-a-century ago, this was the only "God's Acre" on the south side. It is now closed as a place of sepulture. The Southern Necropolis has tripled its size since it was devised by the late Mr. Colin Sharp M'Laws, a merchant, and son-in-law of Bailie Gilmour of Oatlands.
HUTCHESONTOWN. - In this district, on St. Ninian's Croft, there was founded (in 1350) by the pious Lady Marjory Stewart of Lochow, a leper hospital. It existed for many years to give shelter and relief. In 1610 reference is made to the manner in which the victims of leprosy were to be allowed to enter the city. It was only in the year 1794 that the first house was built on the lands of Hutchesontown in St. Ninian's Street. This street along with Hospital Street was named to commemorate the benefaction. Green fields were all around. The district gradually lost its rural character, and tenements poor in appearance were put up. These becoming inhabited, streets after streets were formed and places of industry sprang up; but Hutchesontown did not progress at the same rate as some other sections of our city. The buildings in Hospital Street (its chief street), were of an ordinary type; but with the erection of Castlemilk Place appeared dwellings for people in a well-to-do position. The chief building in Hutchesontown was the Relief Church at the corner of Hospital Street and Rutherglen Road. There it is to this day, outwardly the same, but internally all changed. Its first minister, the Rev. W. Thomson, was somewhat unpolished in his style. He had charge of this congregation for more than fifty years. One Sabbath afternoon, nearly sixty years ago, while engaged in ordaining elders he said that some elders had left the church in displeasure, but ere long "every leeving soul of them returned to it." His successor was the late Rev. J. S. Taylor.
THISTLE STREET and CROWN STREET are the other two leading streets. In appearance they are changed from what they were formerly, especially the latter, from Rutherglen Road upwards. The erection of Hutchesons' Hospital School, and the new tenements that quickly sprang up caused Hutchesontown to spread until it was close upon "Dixon's Blasts." When Mr. Dixon began practical operations the "blazes" were severely denounced as destroyen of health and vegetation; as a nuisance to the district, and all southwards; and as likely to put an end to further building. These objections have proved groundless. The "blasts" are still to the fore, and are more important to-day than ever. The health of the locality has not suffered, and the district to the south instead of being, as of yore, studded only with colliers' houses in a few long rows, has largely been covered with handsome tenements. This improvement, although chiefly confined to the south, has been felt in other directions, streets springing into being and the population increasing rapidly.
In bygone years when it was not uncommon for the Clyde to overflow its banks, the following streets which lie low were inundated: Rose Street, Commercial Read, Wellington, and Govan Streets. Hutchesontown had many factories in it. For long years in Govan Street were the iron works of the Messrs. Girdwood. Messrs. P. & W, M'Lellan afterwards became occupants of these works till they went to their present large premises. What was known as the Blindburn Spinning and Weaving Factories later became the confectionery and biscuit work of the late Bailie Lamberton and his sons. Near to these was a large saw mill. How has Hutchesontown changed! The ground, at one time of little value and the works and buildings thereon small and unimportant, giving but little return to the original proprietors, now yields a large and increasing revenue, which, through the Hutcheson Trust, is carefully expended on the comfort and happiness of the infirm and aged, and in the education of youth.
LAURIESTON marches with Gorbals district on the east. It derived its name from Mr. James Laurie, an enterprising timber merchant and builder, who feued the ground from the Hospital trustees, and laid out the streets and built a large part thereof. Its area is not very great, and it has always been more of a residential than an industrial character. A peculiarity of this district is that the streets have all high-sounding names - Portland, Cavendish, Salisbury, Bedford, Oxford, Norfolk, Warwick, Coburg, Surrey, and Cumberland Streets.
PORTLAND STREET, its chief street, was opened in 1802. When I knew it first, in 1826, there were only a few tenements near the foot. John, George, and William Binnie, builders and joiners, believing that there was a necessity for better house accommodation, built some tenements, the demand for which showed how accurately they had gauged the wants of the district, and were encouraged to go on with other building operations. John was the most enterprising of the three brothers. He raised a large block of buildings, known as Binnie's Building, the frontages of which were in Portland Street, Oxford Street, and Norfolk Street. He entrusted the management of these numerous dwellings to Mr. Laing, now ex-Bailie Laing, whose ability for this new sphere of duty soon became manifest, not only to Mr. Binnie, but to other owners of property. By this enterprise Mr. Binnie became widely known, and was held in such high estimation that for a long time he was chief magistrate of the south side. He was father-in-law of the late Dr. Anderson, of John Street Relief Church. I remember him well when he lived in Portland Street.
George Binnie, while industrious, was not so successful in his building speculations. He erected a large block of tenements on the south side of Norfolk Street, fronting the Police Office. He was a great enthusiast in the formation of the Gorbals Gravitation Water Company, which was intended to give a purer and better supply of water to the residenters on the south side, the supply at this time being not only limited but very impure. Mr. Binnie was summoned to give evidence before a committee of the House of Commons in favour of the new company. When in the witness-box he declared that the water was full of impurities; yea, that in it were found "calves". This statement convulsed the committee. An explanation being demanded, he repeated the word "calves" in his broad doric. The chairman asked him if they were living. "Oh, no." "What, then?" asked the chairman. "I mean to tell you that in the water there is a great deal of chaff or waste straw." But this state of matters did not continue when, by Parliamentary sanction, the Gorbals Gravitation Water Company began to supply the south side with water. This company in after years became amalgamated with the Glasgow Water Company. Its waters are still supplying parts of the south side.
What helped further to stimulate building in Portland Street was the opening of the Suspension Bridge in 1852, this street being the chief highway from the bridge to the south. In Abbotsford Place tenements soon covered what was a grassy park, and the once quiet street became noisy with the hum of passing throngs. The social condition of its inhabitants has somewhat changed, many of the larger houses in Portland Street being now sub divided. Still it is a fine central and bright street.
Neither WARWICK STREET nor APSLEY PLACE, however good as a residential quarter, ever reached the popularity of Portland Street. Oxford, Norfolk, Bedford, Nicholson, North and South Coburg, and Surrey Streets, were favourite habitations for a large portion of the people who liked to reside on the south side.
The most stirring of all the streets in Laurieston were Bridge Street and Eglinton Street. Being in a line with Jamaica Street Bridge and the direct highway leading southward, these streets were soon transformed into a busy thoroughfare. The Methodist Chapel of the Rev. Valentine Ward stood on the west side of Bridge Street, the membership of which was but small. The first temperance meeting I ever attended was in the large hall of this church. Its chief speakers were William Collins (father of Sir William Collins) and "the Dundee Carter." They spared not themselves in denouncing the terrible sin of intemperance. These orators were only second to the celebrated John B. Gough. Shortly after this the church was given up and sold to the Glasgow and South-Western Railway Company. Its station, offices, etc., were erected on the site on which the church stood. As the business of this company rapidly increased the silence which so long reigned there gave place to bustle and noise. The east side of Eglinton Street from the corner of Norfolk Street up to opposite Wallace Street was like an orchard. In autumn the apple and pear trees bore excellent fruit, which many of my companions eagerly coveted.
From the corner of Coronation Buildings up to the corner of Bedford Street and South Coburg Street extended a large park in which sheep grazed. As already mentioned, at the corner of Bedford Street stood Eglinton Street United Presbyterian Church. Beyond it new properties were erected up to the brick wall which enclosed the mansion-house of Mr. Pearson, rope spinner, who had his works in Ropework Lane.
The front of this fine house looked southward. Its entrance was from Cumberland Street. At this part of Eglinton Street, on its west side, were Gray's hills, commonly called the "clay holes," where as juveniles we amused ourselves. One day my brother William and I were there enjoying ourselves, when suddenly there came on a most violent thunderstorm: the lightning was most vivid, and actually scorched my brother's shirt collar. When we reached home my mother was greatly alarmed at this event. This was our last visit to Gray's hills. By-and-by these became changed. On part of this ground were erected Hutchesontown Free Church and the goods department of the South-Western Railway.
Further up was Port-Eglinton Hotel and the entrance to the Paisley and Johnstone Canal. Immediately above this was the large wool-spinning and carpet manufactory of Wilson, Stow & Co., the chief partner of which was the late Mr. David Stow, the eminent educationist. It was chiefly by his influence and zeal that the Normal School or College was opened in Cowcaddens. Beyond the above busy hive of industry was the cavalry or horse barracks. Large numbers of people were often seen standing at its chief entrance watching the soldiers being drilled, while in summer evenings they resorted there to listen to the splendid music discoursed by the soldiers' band. This barracks, when closed, became the hospital of the Govan Parochial Board; but these premises latterly became too small for carrying on their laudable work. The Board, accordingly, removed to new and spacious buildings erected by themselves, now known as Merryflats Hospital, near Govan.
CARLTON PLACE was a splendid range of buildings extending from the Gorbals Church to the Broomielaw Bridge. In its early years it was one of the sights of the city. It consisted of two divisions, separated from each other by Portland Street. They were designed by Mr. P. Nicholson. The eastern section was erected by Mr. James Laurie in 1802. The western portion was begun in 1813 and finished in 1818. I recollect well when the western portion was adorned with its beautiful iron railings. Its eastern and western ends were entered by handsome gates. In order that the residents might not be disturbed, no general traffic was permitted. That this might be rigidly carried out gatekeepers were stationed at each gateway, and the place had the stillness of a rural kirkyard. As time rolled on and business grew in volume these peaceful retreats became the scene of stirring life. Some of these spacious high-rented mansions are still inhabited, but the greater number are now sub-divided, and turned into offices and commercial business premises. Altogether, Carlton Place has become greatly changed from what it was in its early years.
TRADESTON is situated west of Laurieston, on ground feued in 1790 from the Trades' House and Incorporations of the City. In 1802 it was planned by a Mr. Muir. Its principal street faced the river, and was named Clyde Buildings. The better class of people who then lived in Tradeston resided here. Not till thirty years after was there any quayage on the south side of the river. I recollect the great noise made by the driving of the piles for the foundation of this new quay, which extended from Broomielaw Bridge to West Street. Small coasting vessels were harboured, and the lowly shops which then existed gradually gave place to larger places of business. Next in importance to Clyde Buildings was King Street, the chief street leading on to Paisley Road. The streets of Tradeston were proportionally of good breadth, but the dwellings in them destitute of architectural taste or charm. The inhabitants were nearly all of the industrial class, and the rents upon the whole not high. Strictly speaking the Methodist Church on the west side of Bridge Street was located in Tradeston.
At the south comer of King and Commerce Streets the Gorbals Free Church was built, after the Disruption, for those who had left the Gorbals Parish Church. The next ecclesiastical building was the plain one in Commerce Street, erected for those who attended Kingston quoad sacra Parish Church. At the '43 crisis, they with their minister, Rev. Dr. Gibson (afterwards professor of theology in the Glasgow Free Church College), worshipped in it. The membership at no time was ever large under its three different ministers. Latterly the building was sold to a section of the Scotch Episcopal Church. In time this body left it. Nearly twenty years ago the Evangelical Union erected a church in Nelson Street
In halls and in houses in several streets in Tradeston mission work was carried on for many years. For nearly thirty years the mission in Dale Street has done good evangelistic and philanthropic work. To concentrate and develop its general operations Camphill United Presbyterian Church purchased ground on the south side of King Street, and erected excellent and commodious premises at a cost of £3,000. These were opened last year free of debt.
Little more than half-a-century has elapsed since the general industries of Tradeston received a fresh and vigorous impulse. In Wallace Street for a number of years Cook's engineering establishment was the only one of its kind in the district. Now iron industries are both numerous and important, while various trades are extensively carried on. Cotton and spinning factories were early located in Cook Street, Centre Street, and West Street, but were comparatively small. In Centre Street the Messrs. Primrose have grinding mills as well as at Port-Dundas. They do a large business as flour merchants. It is seventy or eighty years since their grandfather had the chief bakery business in Tradeston. In this district there is great need for improved sanitation, as well as for household dwellings of a better class.
KINGSTON lies adjacent to Tradeston. Its chief row of buildings was called Maxwellton Place, and possessed the famous Red Dyke well, at which I many times slaked my thirst. It was truly a "brook by the way." Often have I passed the house in which Mr. Reid ("Senex") lived, and looked at the doorplate with this legibly engraved on it, "Knock and then ring." At that time Mr. Reid had not written those historic letters which first appeared in the Glasgow Herald, and after in book form, and which have immortalised his nom de plume "Senex". His book gives a full and interesting account of the sayings and doings of old St. Mungo's lieges in various ranks of society.
A great and radical change has taken place in the appearance of Kingston district. Scattered and few were the habitations either for rich or poor. In summer the trees waved their green branches over the grassy sward, and in autumn fine apple and pear frees yielded good supplies of fruit. South from Paisley Road there stood apart two handsome self contained houses inhabited by Glasgow merchants, on the enclosed ground in front of which were sheepfolds.
The late Bailie Pearson was the first to erect villas in Kingston, and succeeding in this enterprise others followed, and good substantial dwelling-houses were erected, and speedily let. In this way the district lost its rural appearance. Street after street was opened; the population greatly increased, and stores for the sale of various kinds of merchandise sprang up. In the western part of Kingston, fronting Paisley Road, nearly seventy years since, there was built Roseneath Cottage, which in external appearance was more Swiss-like than Scottish. This house was then considered a long way out of Glasgow, and many made it the end of their western walk. Its surroundings so pleasantly laid out made this old-time "tea"-garden very popular. The cottage is still in existence. Nearly opposite it on the roadside was a quaint-looking house, from the roof of which there rose up a spire-like tree. At the side of this habitation was Kinning House Burn, which in its meandering divided Lanarkshire and Renfrewshire, and poured its waters into the Clyde.
At the west of Kingston stood the Windmill Croft, which was said to be the property of the Boyles of Kelburn, and to give the title of Earl of Glasgow to the head of that family. The ground was purchased by the Clyde Trust for £40,000, and formed into a tidal dock, with a water area of 5 1/3 acres, the quays extending to 830 lineal yards, which gives accommodation for 11,000 tons of shipping. The depth of water at full flow of spring tides is 21 to 23 feet, and at low water 10 to 12 feet. It was called Kingston Dock, was the first in Glasgow, and was opened on 10th October, 1867. The total cost was £155,000. The swing bridge to it is on the lattice girder principle. Its span is 82½ feet, and it has on each side two lines of roadway for passengers and carts respectively. The bridge cost upwards of £12,000.
| Glasgow Digital Library | Ebooks | Title page | Contents | Indexes |
|---|