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PUBLIC PARKS for the community were not required early in the century. The limited area of the city made it easy for the inhabitants to enjoy fresh air amid Nature's beauties without loss of time. The rapid growth and widening area of the city, however, made additional "lungs" beyond what Glasgow Green provided quite a necessity. Our civic rulers were not slow in providing additional parks, an account of which, as well as of the Green, I give:-
THE GREEN. - This was at one time the only public park within the boundaries of the city. It lies to the south-east, on the north bank of the Clyde, and contains about 140 acres, intersected by paths, and diversified with clumps of trees. In my youthful days it was the favourite resort of the citizens, who, in the course of their strolls through it, would rest on its seats, after refreshing themselves with a draught of cold water from the "Physic" Well, Arn's Well, or one of the other springs found on various parts of the park. In the last sixty years its appearance has somewhat changed. The wells have disappeared; the clumps of trees are few in number; the Molendinar and Camlachie burns which flowed through it have been covered over; parts of it have been railed in and planted with shrubs, and a band-stand and gymnasium have been erected in it a little to the south of William Street. It is as popular as in the days of old, although at present in a somewhat chaotic condition through railway operations, but when the "underground" is opened it will be restored, as nearly as possible, to its former state.
Entering the Green at Jail Square the eye is attracted by the neat Doulton fountain, an object of interest at the "Groveries" of 1838. Taken down when the exhibition came to an end, it was gifted to the city by Messrs. Doulton and erected where it now stands at that company's expense. A little beyond can be seen the stately monument, 144 feet high, erected to the sea-king Horatio Nelson. Proceeding along the carriage-drive by the river bank the station of the Humane Society is reached, the officer of which is George Geddes, who can provide the lieges with boats of various kinds. It is said that near this house James Watt conceived the idea which led to the improvement of the steam-engine. Close at hand is the suspension bridge, opened in 1855, shortly after the overcrowding of the ferry-boat, when a number of mill-girls were drowned, and Lambert, the "hero and martyr," made his name memorable in the annals of life-saving from drowning. Between this bridge and Rutherglen bridge (just now undergoing the process of reconstruction) are two ferries, soon to be replaced, it is believed, by a bridge at the foot of Govan Street. Opposite Jenny's burn were the famous "spring-boards," where, in bygone days, young Glasgow used to bathe. A little east from this point is the Fleshers' Haugh, where, in the winter of 1745-46 the Young Chevalier reviewed his Highlanders. In late years the Caledonian Railway Company has made the haugh the receptacle of a large quantity of material excavated from the underground railway. Rounding the elbow of the Green Newhall Terrace is come to. Turning westward some fine buildings are passed on the right, chief among which are the Logan and Johnston School, where orphans of these names have the preference of admission, and the Buchanan Institution, where a good industrial education is given to orphan and fatherless children. Greenhead washing-houses and baths having been skirted, Templeton's new mill is seen, the scene of a sad accident in November, 1889, when the mill then in course of erection was blown down and thirty-one workers killed or fatally injured.
West of the mill, and running along north of the Green, is Monteith Row, in front of which were the "flower plots," now transferred to the south of the drive. Close to the south boundary of the plots is the fountain, erected in honour of Hugh Macdonald at "the bonnie wee well on the breist of the brae" on Gleniffer Braes, but transferred to the Green. Going along the drive a few yards westward, the memorial fountain to the late Bailie James Martin is passed, and a turning to the left leads to the Jail Square; while by passing under the arch - the stones of which formed the front of the "Athenaeum," and are again put together at the expense of ex-Bailie M'Lennan - London Street can be entered and the city gained.
Besides being the principal "lung" of the city, in the Green many meetings of importance have been held, there being no hall in Glasgow capable of holding a large assemblage. In my day the largest meetings were those addressed by Dan O'Connell, the renowned Irish orator, and another at which Father Mathew spoke. One which was addressed by the Irish agitator was very large, and was held enthralled by his eloquence. When the hero of the occasion rose to speak, I murmured, "This cannot be the great Dan; surely he is a naval officer?" Perhaps the remark was excusable. Imagine a well-knit man of average size, with a cloth cap on his head, and dressed in a blue suit, a pleasant smile on his round face, and you have O'Connell as I saw him that day.
Thousands turned out to hear the Irish apostle of temperance thunder against the evils of drunkenness. Moved by the pictures he drew of intellects weakened, purses emptied, fair fames smirched, families ruined, and souls lost through intemperance, hundreds promised to abstain from the use of strong drink as a beverage; but many broke this promise ere the voice of the orator was silent for ever.
Demonstrations, such as the Reform one of 1832, referred to in another page, reviews, and sham fights, have been successfully held in "the People's Park." In it the Volunteers are drilled, and "ta force" put "through their facings." Here, too, are held religious and temperance gatherings, harangued by earnest men; also debates, some frivolous, and others serious, many of which are mere sound, signifying nothing.
KELVINGROVE PARK. - The appearance of this park has greatly altered since the days when the lover invited his "bonnie lassie" to rove through its beautiful mazes. Gone are the midnight fairies. The broom is still as bonnie, but the "roaring waterfall" makes little noise. No longer does the river wind clear, and the fragrant scented brier is rarely found. Art has done much to adorn and beautify its terraced grounds. Its well-designed and rich flower beds, with their distinctive features, are most refreshing to the eye, and vie with each other in attractiveness.
In 1852, Kelvingrove, Woodlands, and the adjoining properties, amounting to sixty-six acres, were bought by the City Corporation for £7,800. Several additions since then have been made to these, and the area is now a little more than seventy-three acres. The grounds were laid out as a public park in the year 1853.
The park is well wooded, and contains stately tree, homely hawthorn, and lowly yet beautiful moss. A few of the British trees, unable to stand the contaminated atmosphere, have died, but foreign trees, such as the Canadian poplar and the Chinese arbor vitae, and the hardier native trees have taken their places.
Among the clumps of trees on the sloping ground, and in the grass and among the whins and broom of the lower parts, are found no fewer than sixty-four kinds of birds, while in the artificial lake there sport many British waterfowl, and such strangers as the Australian black swan, the Chinese mandarin duck, and the whistling teal from Hindostan. These find a resting place at night in the little islet in the centre of the lake.
Among the objects of interest in the West End Park are the granite stair, near Park Gardens; the Stewart memorial fountain, erected when Stewart of Murdostoun was Lord Provost, to commemorate the introduction of Loch Katrine water; the museum, with its collection of birds, snakes, beasts, Egyptian and Peruvian relics, Buddhist and Chinese idols, Thibetan praying wheels, musical instruments (one of these a flute made from an Indian priest's thighbone), coins, etc.; models of ancient and modern ships, among these being that of the Comet; band stand; bronze tiger and cubs, by Rosa Bonheur; the wooden bridge spanning the Kelvin, now being replaced by a new one; the iron girder bridge lower down the river, allowing of vehicular traffic between Dumbarton Road and Hillhead; and the mineral well, which now, however, gives forth none of its medicinal water, and the ground round which was enclosed and a drinking fountain made.
A few crows find a roosting place in this park. When they first settled here an able Glasgow minister perpetrated a good joke. As mentioned on another page, there was a rookery at the top of Queen Street. Building operations having pulled down the nests and the rooks having flown away to Kelvingrove, the minister referred to said something like this: "These crows are almost human in their intelligence: they, too, are moving their goods and chattels westward."
In this park was held the great International Exhibition of 1888, from which the handsome surplus of £48,000 was realised. This amount, together with large generous subscriptions since received, is to be expended on the new Art Galleries now being built on the western portion of same grounds.
QUEEN'S PARK. - This beautiful park of eighty acres, once known as Pathhead Farm, was named after the monarch whose hopes of remaining Queen of Scots were for ever shattered at the battle of Langside. Although known by this name, it is supposed the battlefield extended to the ground where the memorial monument of the conflict is erected. Acquired in 1857 at a cost of £30,000, with the object of opening up for building the southern outskirts of the city, the years 1858-59 were occupied with laying it out, draining, etc. The amount of money expended on these purposes was estimated at about other £30,000, and a number of the unemployed found something to do in the work of preparing the park for the opening day on 11th September, 1862. "The Queen's" is well wooded - ash, beech, birch, chestnut, elm, and plane trees being found in it, while the rhododendron and holly are seen everywhere. The air is melodious with the songs of birds, and the somewhat discordant "caw-caw" of the crows falls on the ear - a small rookery of these blackcoats being in the neighbourhood.
In the park are two arbours, several rustic vases, seats in shady walks, a flower terrace 750 feet long by 140 feet wide, reached from the lower ground by a granite stair, football and cricket fields, bowling greens, lawn tennis courts, and, as advertisers sometimes say, "other attractions too numerous to mention."
The numerous visitors in summer time hear instrumental music twice a-week. Pathhead farmhouse has been turned into waiting-rooms. Near this is the head-gardener's house, tool-house, etc. Two hundred feet above sea level, on the lands of Camphill, is a mound with a flag-pole. From this mound can be seen the Kilpatrick hills, Gleniffer braes, Mearns moor, etc.
To this park Camphill estate of fifty-eight acres was added in 1893, at a cost of £63,000. About this addition Mr. M'Lellan, ex-superintendent of parks, in one of his interesting "Glasgow Parks" articles, in the Glasgow Herald of 26th December, 1893, writes: "With regard to the laying out of the new portion of the park, there are some four or five acres, including the flower garden, plant houses, part of the kitchen garden, and large bowling green, which are admirably suited for being set apart as a place of instruction and amusement in the shape of an arboretum, gymnasium, and maze, such as has been constructed at Hampton Court and Hatfield. The old garden should certainly be preserved, as there are few specimens near Glasgow which show so well what the old-fashioned gardens of our country houses used to be. A considerable portion of the lower ground is well suited for feuing purposes, for which a large sum could be obtained, and which would not detract in any way from the natural beauties and amenities of the park. It would be desirable to continue the present carriage drive in the Queen's Park round the north and west side of the camp, and connect it with the Camphill Drive round the base of the hill to Langside."
On the occasion of the opening of the new Camphill grounds on 24th May, 1894, a Glasgow evening paper thus writes: "When the Police Band had ceased playing in the park crowds began moving towards the new grounds, until thousands were roaming over them, enjoying the unwonted freedom of tripping grassy meadows and squeezing through hedges without fear of tremendous penalties and boards about 'the utmost rigour,' etc. On the top of a knoll on the highest slope a gigantic bonfire was lit, and the youngsters - and some old folks too - enjoyed themselves."
ALEXANDRA PARK. - This park lies to the north-east of the city. Its entrance is within a minute's walk of Alexandra Park railway station, and within easy distance of car terminus. Bought in 1860 as a recreation ground for the inhabitants of the north-eastern part of the city, its total extent, including Easter Kennyhill, is 125 acres.
The hand of man is visible in this somewhat bleak park. The hilly ground - from the highest point of which "Tinto tap," the Kilpatrick hills and lofty Ben Lomond are visible on those rare days when the district is thoroughly free from smoke or haze - has been planted with forest trees, which have flourished in spite of their uncongenial surroundings. The lower parts of the park have been diversified by ornamental shrubs and flowers, the laying out and the necessary preparation of the land being principally the work of operatives and labourers, who in the depressed trade years of 1867-68 could find no other work to do.
Everything calculated to give to the visitor rational enjoyment can be found in this park. Gravelled walks, bordered by trees, lead to various places where rest can be obtained. Waiting rooms for the use of the public are not awanting. A swimming pond, formerly a disused quarry, sheltered by trees, is well patronised during the summer months; while an artificial pond is often crowded with model yachts, accommodation for these miniature vessels being provided in the park. There is also a lake in the waters of which swim various kinds of swans, geese, ducks, and other birds, whose graceful motions delight the children who gather on the margin, and express their pleasure by gifts of bread, etc., to the aquatic denizens.
In the summer time from the band-stand between the pond and the lake, music is occasionally discoursed. In the north-east corner stands the golf-house, and the "gowfer," calmly content, may frequently be seen following the ball. Despite the bare appearance of its northern part, Alexandra Park is well worthy a visit from those who have enjoyed the beauties of the "Queen's."
CATHKIN PARK. - About five miles in a bee line from the Exchange, one and a-half from Rutherglen, and two and a-half from Cathcart, is situated this park, generously gifted to the city by Mr. James Dick, merchant, Glasgow. These far famed Cathkin Braes are well known to our older citizens, and were often resorted to on Saturdays. They stand six hundred feet above the sea level, and contain forty-nine acres, lying on a gentle slope, and pleasantly diversified with trees and shrubs. It is truly a "natural" park, and is likely so to remain, Mr. Dick having stipulated that no alterations be made on it, and that football, cricket, and similar games be prohibited. In this "rural seat" the thrush, the skylark, the linnet, the lapwing, the wood pigeon, and many other birds, find a home. To the east of the park is Cathkin House, in a room of which Mary, Queen of Scots, is said to have slept the night before the battle of Langside, while in the park itself is Queen Mary's Seat, where, legend says, she looked back after that, to her, disastrous defeat. From this point on a clear day can be seen the Pentlands, Goat fell, Ben Lomond, and the river Clyde from Carmyle to Dumbarton. The means of access to the park are - train to Rutherglen or Cathcart, and 'bus to Burnside.
BOTANIC GARDENS. - My space permits but a brief account of the various vicissitudes through which these gardens have passed. The year 1817 was their genesis, when a company called the Royal Botanic Institution purchased about eight acres of ground to the east of Claremont Street, and south of Sauchiehall Road. The company was highly successful, but tenements springing up on every side of its property compelled its members, in order to save their plants, to remove in 1839 to the present site on Kelvinside estate, the ground then purchased extending to twenty-five acres.
The old Botanic Gardens formed a pleasant rendezvous for a number of years after the removal of the botanical collection to Kelvinside. The walks remained as before, and the grounds were adorned with many handsome trees and flowering shrubs. Archery was a favourite amusement in these days, and an archery club had the use of the old garden for a long time. In the middle of the grounds was a pond, and to the north of this was a high bank, against which the archers shot. In summer they presented a very gay appearance, clad in Lincoln green, and armed with bows and arrows. On several occasions there were great archery meetings in the adjoining grounds of Kelvingrove, in which several clubs took part. The old gardens were acquired in 1839 by Mr. Walter Gray, Mr. David Murray, and others, with the object of reselling the land for building. In 1844 the proprietors built Fitzroy Place, but the remainder of the ground was not taken up for fully twenty years. When Kelvingrove Park was formed, many of the trees were removed to it from the old Botanic Garden, and can still be pointed out.
Matters moved smoothly in the new gardens, and in 1878 the late Mr. Kibble of Coulport removed his conservatory to them, where it was in after years utilised for such plants as had grown too large for the hot-houses, and for musical entertainments of various kinds. Financial difficulties arose, and the company becoming indebted to the Corporation of Glasgow, in 1891 the gardens became the property of the citizens, and were afterwards opened to the public as one of the parks. The total area of the gardens is twenty-eight acres - three acres having recently been added to the original twenty-five.
The gardens form a kind of "happy hunting ground" for the botanist - hot-house, hardy, and herbaceous plants, tree ferns, exotics, which most of the visitors rarely see elsewhere, and specimens of almost every home and foreign plant being found in them. Nor are they without attractions to the bird lover. The homely impudent sparrow, the bold robin red-breast, the "mellow mavis," the soaring skylark, and other "flying minstrels," have their habitat in this park. The cuckoo, with no winter in its year, and the swift-flying swallow, pay them an annual visit, while occasionally, "when e'enin's shades begin to fa'," the too-whit-too-whoo of the owl may be heard as he flies about seeking for what he may devour. In Kelvingrove was the Three Tree Well. The well, however, is to be found no more, but the three trees still stand to mark the spot.
Among the attractions outside is a portion of ground set apart for the use of students and others interested in systematic botany. Here the plants are arranged in their natural orders, and although capable of considerable improvement, this plot is of great help to many in the study of plant classification.
The whole gardens are a boon even to the most casual observers in giving them pleasant walks, and bringing them under the refining influence of so many beautiful flowers. Even in winter when all may be frost-bound and bare without, the Kibble palace affords both the climate and scenery of the sunny south, and fills the visitor with admiration of the fine tree ferns and other rarities which it contains.
RUCHILL PARK, purchased to meet the expanding wants of the north-west of the city, consists of ninety-one acres, and cost the corporation, excluding all expenses such as formation, etc., close upon £30,000. The fencing and laying out are not yet completed. Hilly in its nature, only a small portion of its extent can be seen from any of its knolls. From the flagstaff a fine view of the Kilpatrick and Campsie hills is obtained, while in the distance loom the mountain peaks of Argyle. When proper entrances from Garscube and Possil Roads are made, this park will become as useful and popular as any of the others, and in due time will be beautified by the hand of the skilled gardener.
SPRINGBURN PARK. - The alterations and improvements in this park are not yet completed, but it will well repay a visit. Its acreage is forty-eight, thirty-five of which cost £400 per acre, the remaining thirteen £300 each. The sum laid out on formation, etc., will probably bring the expenditure on this park to above £25,000. It has two chief entrances, one by Balgray Hill, the other by Broomfield Road. The main paths in it are bordered by trees and shrubs, while clumps of plants are here and there to be seen. The bandstand is the generous gift of the late James Reid, Esq. of Auchterarder, and Hydepark Locomotive Works, and directly faces the family mansion. In the higher part lies the yacht pond, which is patronised by such Springburnians as are of nautical proclivities There is a little touch of the braeside in the ground in the neighbourhood of the pond, sheep feeding peacefully on the green pasture. On a hill stands a flagstaff, from which can be seen the Campsie fells and lofty Ben Lomond.
SUBURBAN PARKS. - To refer to these parks at the same length as I have done to those in the city does not appear necessary. Suffice it to say that what is written of one applies in a great degree to all. Each has trees, shrubs, and flowers, pleasant "walks," and a bandstand. In each is also to be found a large pond, on the waters of which may frequently be seen sailing one or more yachts, and on rarer occasions fleets of these miniature vessels. Not many years ago this amusement was chiefly followed by growing lads and children who were often accompanied by their fathers or big brothers, but now it is not uncommon to see even a potent, grave, and reverend senior watching the motions of his little yacht, or marching on the edge of the pond, and with a long pole guiding the vessel, or, turning it from the shore, send it speeding along on another voyage. As may be expected among a seafaring population such as that of Glasgow the minor improvements which have been made in the models have been adopted in the construction of the larger vessels.
But although these are common to all the parks, yet each has at least one feature not to be seen in the others. In the Elder Park, Govan, the gift of Mrs. Elder, stands the statue of her husband, the late John Elder, Esq., the renowned shipbuilder. A number of deer wander in an enclosure in this park. At the eastern extremity of Maxwell Park, presented to the burgh by Sir John Stirling Maxwell, Bart. of Pollok, are erected what not long ago were the municipal buildings of West Pollokshields. But instead of council meetings, family re-unions and social or marriage parties are there held.
In them on 25th October, 1890, No. 772 Lodge Pollok (Rev. Dr. Niven chaplain) was consecrated by M. Shaw Stewart, Esq., M.P., and to them Sir John Stirling Maxwell presented a beautiful window, finished in May of this year (1894). In Victoria Park, Whiteinch, are the celebrated "fossil trees," discovered when a road was being cut through the park. These petrifactions greatly interest visitors to the city, but do not receive from the natives the attention which they deserve. The better to preserve them from ruthless hands and from decay, the Partick Authorities have enclosed them in a specially adapted building.
RECREATION GROUNDS, OPEN SPACES, ETC. - While our public parks are mostly situated on the outskirts of the City, yet it was felt that more open spaces within the City proper would be health-sustaining and otherwise advantageous. The passing of the City Improvement Acts of 1866 and subsequent years, gave the Corporation power to open up congested districts, and provide squares and recreation grounds. Accordingly Overnewton, Oatlands, Cathedral, and Bain Squares were acquired and laid out. With the same object the patrons of Hutchesons' Hospital presented to the City an area of about three-quarters of an acre on the south side, known as Hutcheson's Square. Part of it has since been used as a playground for children. Maxwell Square in East Pollokshields is another spot well-adapted and used for the enjoyment of children. Another square or public park of about four acres in the district of Govanhill, bought by the Corporation, is at present being laid out for the inhabitants.
In the west, a plot of ground lying between Blantyre Street and Regent Mills, was acquired in 1888 by the Corporation for recreation purposes, but is principally used for football playing. The latest addition is a plot of ground of about two acres at Glencairn Drive, presented to the Corporation by that public-spirited gentleman, Sir John Stirling Maxwell.
A praiseworthy effort has recently been made for the healthful exercise and recreation of the children, and deserves special notice. The Health Committee of the Corporation about two years ago bought for £25,000 the ground at the junction of New City and Garscube Roads - the site of the old Phoenix Foundry. This has been arranged in two divisions, with a gymnasium for boys and girls, and very tastefully laid out with trees, flowers and shrubs. A large ornamental fountain has been placed here, the gift of Messrs. Buchanan Brothers. It is very pleasing to see here daily hundreds of children amusing themselves and strengthening their muscles with various healthy kinds of exercise. A similar recreation ground and gymnasium, but on a smaller scale, have been opened in the Gorbals, and are well patronised.
Our Civic rulers have, by arrangement, secured that the playgrounds of several of our Board Schools are kept open after school hours, for the benefit of children playing therein.
If we had a few more squares and open spaces they would greatly conduce to the healthfulness of the lieges. No doubt our Health Committee will in due time try to increase the number of these. They deserve credit for what has already been done.
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